If you can afford it, buy the new one. Use it for a while, then be honest with yourself about which you shoot better with. Sell the loser.
One of my mates did exactly the same. The K80 completely messed up his shooting to such an extent that he suffered so badly from trigger freeze that his shooting collapsed.
I keep looking at various guns that I really fancy but then my head takes over and says that old miroke breaks them when you point it right so why change for a fancier bit of wood and some pretty engraving.Spot on the money, why do you want to trade up to a DT10? I keep going back to my MK38 and now I wouldn't swap it for anything (well maybe a MX2000S factory fitted). A very well known shooter once told me it takes 6 to 12 months to get used to a gun, add 3 to 5 months for every adjustment you make to it, once it fits and you know how to shoot it why change?Or just save ya money and spend it on lessons and shells
Important to appreciate what `expensive` means in gun attributes. You can upgrade to lovely wood and engraving with zero shooting benefit (unless your head is just plain happier..). Usually cheaper guns are lighter! (Perhaps less reliable). Most successful clay shots use a heavy gun.. So if you take a lighter gun and carefully add weights maybe you can make it feel like the expensive gun of your dreams. This would certainly be my route if on a tight budget.So is there ever a point when someone will look at you and say "You're doing well, but your gun is letting you down. Upgrade"? With musical instruments better always feels better to the player, even if the player isn't good enough to sound better to others, but it's fairly early on (about Grade 5) that you have to have a certain standard of instrument to be able to produce a certain quality of sound. How much difference can an expensive well-fitting gun make over a cheaper well-fitting gun? Do coaches regularly tell their clients that to progress a bit further you need a better gun?
Not that I'm looking for excuses to go shopping
But if I turn up with my basic Beretta Silver Pigeon or my Browning 525 and it fits well and I shoot well, is there ever going to be a time where my progress is hindered by my gun? Or should the only thing standing between me a being A class or above be my ability to learn and my commitment to practice?
I can give you an example which to me proved that having a costly gun is not necessary! I was shooting ABT many years ago and a guy on the squad shot really badly. He moaned about his shells and even more about his gun, which was a not a very costly model. A rather well known/famous trap shooter was listening and watching him, he asked if he could borrow the gun for a round of ABT, he also bought two boxes of the guys shells from him. Anyway, the well known trap shooter shot 25 stright with the gun and shells, at which point the gun was handed back to it's, by now very red faced owner ,and the well known guy informed him that NOTHING was wrong with the gun, but that HE needed to take some lessons! Buying a "winning" gun such as a DT10,DT11, MX8, MK38,K80 etc etc, will not make you into a winner. By all means buy a DT10 or whatever you like, but it may not make you into a world champ,only ability can do that! I have shot MX8's, DT10, MK38's, 682X's, 3800's and various other guns, but none of them made me a top shooter, basically because I'm simply not bloody good enough!!! World, European and Olympic medals have been won with guns that are not regarded as top drawer, so don't, as many of us have, be fooled by the marketing men who GIVE guns, or pay money to many of the top boys. If you buy a gun from one of the well known makers, which you have, then unless the fit or type of gun is wrong, then changing is likely to be a waste of time and money! And I speak from bitter experience, and like Pete (Salopian) and many others, I always return to Miroku, which is not a costly bit of kit in the great scheme of things!!!
