I thought I'd write this (had some time on my hands). Please excuse the spelling and grammar, made on a devise without autocorrect and English dictionary.
I hope it can be usefull to people who is starting out. Please remember this is my experineces, fitting to my country and my wallet.
A bit of background information on me. I have shot rifle for many years, but not shot a shotgun until May 2016. In May 2016 I got my first shotgun and started to progress in a particular Danish discipline. Then August I started to shoot Olympic Trap. That is what I have focused on (apart from that particular discipline that is unique to Denmark, we shoot that in military competition so I need to shoot that now and then). Have also shot some COMPAK sporting on occasions.
I will attempt to break it down in subcategories, so it will be easier to understand.
Lessons:
Get some lessons from a certified instructor. The instructor can guide you to what type of gun you should get (they ofte have different brands of loaner guns, so you can figure out what suits you the best). They will also make sure you develop a good routine/practice from the start, so you don’t have to unlearn bad habits later. Ask arround where the good instructors are, they all have a reputation (good or bad). Also make sure that the instructor understand the way YOU learn ( good instructor will change the teaching methods to suit the student).
IF you don’t go with a certified instructor, make sure the people that guides you are unbiased to certain guns, techniques and so on. Do not go with instructions from a mate that has just started shooting. Where I am we have no professional instructors, but very experienced shooters (participated in Olympics and World Championships). And a very competent gunsmith. So naturally I listen to those, and try to adhere to their advice.
GUN:
After you have had some lessons you have an idea of what your gun should be like. You know what you like and don’t like. Also you should have an idea of the primary dimensions (Length of pull, cast, drop at comb/heel). Also what kind of discipline you will probably shoot the most.
If you buy used privately, make sure you have a person with you, that can give you an unbiased second opinion (and know about guns).
I’d reccomend to buy from a licensed dealer, preferebly where you can try before you buy. ( we unfortunately don’t have that here in Denmark, but one dealer will take the gun back for the same ammount you bought it for. If new the time to try is a month, used 14 days. Not as a crash back refund, but to buy another gun).
- Brand.
Go with the big players. I started out with a turkish gun (ATA SP trap). Nice gun, handled well. But just after 3500-4000 cartridges through it, it needed to be tightened. It was becoming very loose in the breach. And a bit of side to side play when closed also. Forearm came loose also. I had expected more for a gun branded trap (High volume of shots)
I traded it in for “proper” brand gun, the one that fit me the best within my budget was a Miroku MK38 Trap.
- Length of barrels.
In my honest opinion there is a lot of hype/fashion in this. Go with what feels good/balanced when you mount and swing. I have tried 32 inch barrels that was perfect in one brand, but horrible in another, and the same experience with 30. And your height doesn’t matter regarding barrel lentgh.
- Chokes.
This is a subject that will get peoples knickers in a knot. Interchangebles or not. Size of constriction. My experience is this. First gun I had flush interchangeble chokes. I used ¼ & ½ . Then i tried som extended ones (they looked cooler), same constriction absolutely no difference in my breaks. Then with the new gun they are fixed ¾ & 1/1. I had a drop in hits, but the breaks where better (not so many chippen as with the more open constriction). I seriosly thought about opening it up a bit. Until a former Olympian told my very dry: ” Don’t, you just have to learn how to shoot” Now the number of hits are higher, and very few chipped. And in COMPAK I still hit 23-25 when I shoot that (only shot COMPAK 7 times).
-Interchangebles:
Advantages are the obvious. You can change you constriction anytime you want, to shoot the most appropiate constriction regarding to target distance and speed. Disadvanteges are that you will constantly wonder if it the correct constriction, you will spend more time thinking about that, than actually concentrate on target, stance, hold point, break point and so on. And you will keep trying to buy a new/“better” choke in ordre to buy one more broken clay. If I was to go down that road, I’ll go for extended. Not that they are any better, just easier to change.
-Fixed:
Well just the opposite of the above. But if you have a tight constriction, you might not be very succesfull in the beginning, but in my opinion it’s worth it. I believe I have become a better shot, becuase I don’t get many chipped clays. I either miss or hit. It makes it easier for me to know what I did wrong.
- Adjustability/Gun fit.
Gun fit is paramount. That’s why I recommended some lessons prior to buying, a good coach will spot these requirements. A fully adjustable stock is an obvious sollution, the danger in this is constant fiddling with it. In my opinion it’s also beneficial if you plan to loose weight (or gain weight unplanned), when you add layers of clothes. If you don’t get a gun with a fully adjustable stock, make sure you get it fitted by a reputable stockfitter. But shoot a lot first, so the gunfitter has something to go by (if your mount is not consitent, the result is not good).
- Wood/engraving. Many guns come in different levels. Same gun, but different type of wood and engravings. There is some extremely beutifull guns out there, stunning wod and elaborate hand engravings. But that will cost you. I don’t believe I would shoot better wit the cheapest (all relative) Blazer F3 trap, vs the one with beutifull scrolls and Grade 7 Wood. I would love to look at it and have it though. Just can’t afford it (either actually .). If I could I'd buy the one with the beautiful wood, it must be so satisfying to take out of the cabinet every time.
Ammunition: There is so many choices it can be overwhelming. Load, pellet size, wad type, steel vs lead. And then there is brand marketing and clubhouse rumour/knowledge. I can honestly say as a beginner I have not noticed any difference in hits between brands and price. The only thing I have noticed is the percieved recoil. So I shoot two types, one for trap, and one for everything else. 24gr No6 steel shot for trap, and 24gr No7 steel shot for everything else. Both have plastic wads. The reason for me shooting steel is that we can’t shoot lead, apart from 6 places in Denmark (dispensation until 2020, but might be prolonged). I’m no advocate for steel, but I don’t notice and difference in my hits (either numbers or breaks) when shooting lead vs steel. I must however say lead is more pleasant to shoot. The reason I shoot 24 gr is very simple. They are cheaper! My recommendation is get the cheapest shells you can get your hands on, buy as many as you can pr. purchase. As a novice you will shoot a lot, 24 gr are cheaper, and not so much recoil. I will buy the best shells on the market when it’s a matter of shooting 122 instead of a 120 in a 125 trap game. I shoot with people who shoot the same 24 gr No6 steel as I do who never go under 23 out of 25 in practice (Reason is probably because they are the cheapest around at 130£ a thousand). So I know it’s not the cartridge that’s the limiting factor, it’s me. Buttom line, buy as many as you can. Buy the ones you can afford, as a beginner the shell is not the limiting factor on number of hits.
Essential Kit. Some of the kit mentioned below might not be strictly essential, but more nice than need.
- Ear protection. 3 types dominate. Cheap foam plugs, custom moulded plugs (either passive or with electronics), over ear muffs (either passive or with electronics). Key thing is to look for highest NRR. If you plan to shoot disciplines within ISSF, protection with electronics is forbidden (FITASC will probably enforce that soon also, have no clue on your CPSA rules).
o Cheap foam plugs. IMO they are great. Have a good NRR (the yellow neon ones from 3M are NRR 36). But they need to be used correctly, and are meant for one use only.
o Moulded plugs. Great fit, difficult to use incorrectly. NRR is rarely over 29. Can be very expensive 400£ plus. The passive type have a shotkiller, so you can hear normal conversation ok, but close when noise is dangerous. Electronics do the same, but also enhance sounds and speak. Big advantage on a hunt.
o Over Ear muffs. Reasonably cheap, and depending on models up to NRR 36. Downside can be when you mount your gun, they can bump against the stock and thus letting noise in. They also can interfere with the arms of glasses. Electronics have the same features as the moulded electronics.
I personally use the foam ones AND over ear. I wear glasses, so I go for the double protection. And when I move the muffs, I’m still protected. To me another big advantage is that I feel isolated when shooting, then I can better concentrate on my things. I have the moulded passive type also (issued kit from Phonak). We are not allowed to use them any more in the army, due to H&S. NRR of those are 29. So if you plan on banging 200+ shots at a practice, I will not recommend the moulded ones. If you only shoot occasionally on a hunt, I’d say go for them. They will have earned them self back in 9 years compared to the cheap foam ones. As a side remark, we had to get new impressions every 3 years, beacuse apperently your earcanal change with age and weight.
- Eye protection. More and more ground require this. You have a lot of options if you dont need corrections. If you need corrections it’s becoming more limiting and a bit more expensive. You have a very good man in England, and if i was there I would go see him. Some High Streets opticians can help, but I would look for an optician who also shoots, so they understand what you need.
You can get a lot of different colours for your lenses. A major brand has so many, that to me personally it creates more “noise” than good. I need to wear corrections, so I have some inserts in mine. If I could afford it, I’d buy lenses in colour with corrections (and drop the inserts). I have 3 colours but actually use one 85% of the time. I think our eyes are very different, so a colour that suits me in a certain light condition, most likely wouldn’t be the best for you. So see if you can find a place to try before buy (or you can swap to another colour for a minor fee/free).
- Clothing. Also this is a very personal thing. General outline is: be able to move, and be comfortable. A good thing is either a shooting vest, or a shell pouch. I prefer the vest, but that’s a personal preference.
- Cleaning. People get their head in a twist over this. Short end is, get some grease, oil, and a cleaning solvent. A rod with copper brush and a jag. Use old rags for cleaning, and standard bog roll for barrels. Grease the pressurepoints/hingepins. Lubricate moving parts. Name of grease and oil doesn’t matter as long as you use it. Some clean every time they have shot a shot. Others never. I do it once a week (or when I have been out in foul weather). I take the stock of every couple of months and clean springs/firing pins. I have yet to do anything to the wood, factory finish is still good.
This and that.
When you start to shoot, you will experience a lot of clubhouse wisdom (and internet BS). By that I mean it’s a strange mix of many years of experience and some anecdotal beliefs. It can be very difficult to navigate in (what is usefull knowledge and what is annecdotal legends). But let it all in, and then sort to your own temper and what you can afford. You don’t need the complete range of Pilla X7 glasses, wearing CENS superduper electronic defenders, shooting the bespoke Holland and Holland with the most expensive italian custom made loads. Well actually I’d love to have it all, except the CENS .
But I must admit, it is kind of embarrising seeing people with all the gear and no idea (but very satisfying to score better than them regularly).
Find out what discipline you like to shoot and concentrate on that. You can shoot other disciplines, but if you mix to much you’ll never get good at any. Practice regimen is personal, I normalt go 3 rounds of 25 Olympic Trap a session 2-3 times a week (May to end of September, minus July). I have in one season gone from 15-17 with a lot of chipped targets and second barrel, to 19-22 with very few chipped and most first barrel. That’s including change of gun, and a fit of the Miroku after 2 months. Go to competitions, it gives another dimension to your shooting. For me personally I shoot better in competition. The added pressure gives the game a whole new perspective.
But please pay attention to etiquette where you shoot, adhere to the rules of the game you participate in and pay attention to safety. Be friendly and people will help and be friendly to you (might take some time, a lot of people have been shooting together for years). Stay around after a shoot and participate in social life,and you’ll find some of the nicest people around (and the occational baffoon).
And remember whatever gun you buy, that’s the minor investment. You’ll spend way more on cartridges, clays, registration fees, petrol, food and accomadation.
Lars
I hope it can be usefull to people who is starting out. Please remember this is my experineces, fitting to my country and my wallet.
A bit of background information on me. I have shot rifle for many years, but not shot a shotgun until May 2016. In May 2016 I got my first shotgun and started to progress in a particular Danish discipline. Then August I started to shoot Olympic Trap. That is what I have focused on (apart from that particular discipline that is unique to Denmark, we shoot that in military competition so I need to shoot that now and then). Have also shot some COMPAK sporting on occasions.
I will attempt to break it down in subcategories, so it will be easier to understand.
Lessons:
Get some lessons from a certified instructor. The instructor can guide you to what type of gun you should get (they ofte have different brands of loaner guns, so you can figure out what suits you the best). They will also make sure you develop a good routine/practice from the start, so you don’t have to unlearn bad habits later. Ask arround where the good instructors are, they all have a reputation (good or bad). Also make sure that the instructor understand the way YOU learn ( good instructor will change the teaching methods to suit the student).
IF you don’t go with a certified instructor, make sure the people that guides you are unbiased to certain guns, techniques and so on. Do not go with instructions from a mate that has just started shooting. Where I am we have no professional instructors, but very experienced shooters (participated in Olympics and World Championships). And a very competent gunsmith. So naturally I listen to those, and try to adhere to their advice.
GUN:
After you have had some lessons you have an idea of what your gun should be like. You know what you like and don’t like. Also you should have an idea of the primary dimensions (Length of pull, cast, drop at comb/heel). Also what kind of discipline you will probably shoot the most.
If you buy used privately, make sure you have a person with you, that can give you an unbiased second opinion (and know about guns).
I’d reccomend to buy from a licensed dealer, preferebly where you can try before you buy. ( we unfortunately don’t have that here in Denmark, but one dealer will take the gun back for the same ammount you bought it for. If new the time to try is a month, used 14 days. Not as a crash back refund, but to buy another gun).
- Brand.
Go with the big players. I started out with a turkish gun (ATA SP trap). Nice gun, handled well. But just after 3500-4000 cartridges through it, it needed to be tightened. It was becoming very loose in the breach. And a bit of side to side play when closed also. Forearm came loose also. I had expected more for a gun branded trap (High volume of shots)
I traded it in for “proper” brand gun, the one that fit me the best within my budget was a Miroku MK38 Trap.
- Length of barrels.
In my honest opinion there is a lot of hype/fashion in this. Go with what feels good/balanced when you mount and swing. I have tried 32 inch barrels that was perfect in one brand, but horrible in another, and the same experience with 30. And your height doesn’t matter regarding barrel lentgh.
- Chokes.
This is a subject that will get peoples knickers in a knot. Interchangebles or not. Size of constriction. My experience is this. First gun I had flush interchangeble chokes. I used ¼ & ½ . Then i tried som extended ones (they looked cooler), same constriction absolutely no difference in my breaks. Then with the new gun they are fixed ¾ & 1/1. I had a drop in hits, but the breaks where better (not so many chippen as with the more open constriction). I seriosly thought about opening it up a bit. Until a former Olympian told my very dry: ” Don’t, you just have to learn how to shoot” Now the number of hits are higher, and very few chipped. And in COMPAK I still hit 23-25 when I shoot that (only shot COMPAK 7 times).
-Interchangebles:
Advantages are the obvious. You can change you constriction anytime you want, to shoot the most appropiate constriction regarding to target distance and speed. Disadvanteges are that you will constantly wonder if it the correct constriction, you will spend more time thinking about that, than actually concentrate on target, stance, hold point, break point and so on. And you will keep trying to buy a new/“better” choke in ordre to buy one more broken clay. If I was to go down that road, I’ll go for extended. Not that they are any better, just easier to change.
-Fixed:
Well just the opposite of the above. But if you have a tight constriction, you might not be very succesfull in the beginning, but in my opinion it’s worth it. I believe I have become a better shot, becuase I don’t get many chipped clays. I either miss or hit. It makes it easier for me to know what I did wrong.
- Adjustability/Gun fit.
Gun fit is paramount. That’s why I recommended some lessons prior to buying, a good coach will spot these requirements. A fully adjustable stock is an obvious sollution, the danger in this is constant fiddling with it. In my opinion it’s also beneficial if you plan to loose weight (or gain weight unplanned), when you add layers of clothes. If you don’t get a gun with a fully adjustable stock, make sure you get it fitted by a reputable stockfitter. But shoot a lot first, so the gunfitter has something to go by (if your mount is not consitent, the result is not good).
- Wood/engraving. Many guns come in different levels. Same gun, but different type of wood and engravings. There is some extremely beutifull guns out there, stunning wod and elaborate hand engravings. But that will cost you. I don’t believe I would shoot better wit the cheapest (all relative) Blazer F3 trap, vs the one with beutifull scrolls and Grade 7 Wood. I would love to look at it and have it though. Just can’t afford it (either actually .). If I could I'd buy the one with the beautiful wood, it must be so satisfying to take out of the cabinet every time.
Ammunition: There is so many choices it can be overwhelming. Load, pellet size, wad type, steel vs lead. And then there is brand marketing and clubhouse rumour/knowledge. I can honestly say as a beginner I have not noticed any difference in hits between brands and price. The only thing I have noticed is the percieved recoil. So I shoot two types, one for trap, and one for everything else. 24gr No6 steel shot for trap, and 24gr No7 steel shot for everything else. Both have plastic wads. The reason for me shooting steel is that we can’t shoot lead, apart from 6 places in Denmark (dispensation until 2020, but might be prolonged). I’m no advocate for steel, but I don’t notice and difference in my hits (either numbers or breaks) when shooting lead vs steel. I must however say lead is more pleasant to shoot. The reason I shoot 24 gr is very simple. They are cheaper! My recommendation is get the cheapest shells you can get your hands on, buy as many as you can pr. purchase. As a novice you will shoot a lot, 24 gr are cheaper, and not so much recoil. I will buy the best shells on the market when it’s a matter of shooting 122 instead of a 120 in a 125 trap game. I shoot with people who shoot the same 24 gr No6 steel as I do who never go under 23 out of 25 in practice (Reason is probably because they are the cheapest around at 130£ a thousand). So I know it’s not the cartridge that’s the limiting factor, it’s me. Buttom line, buy as many as you can. Buy the ones you can afford, as a beginner the shell is not the limiting factor on number of hits.
Essential Kit. Some of the kit mentioned below might not be strictly essential, but more nice than need.
- Ear protection. 3 types dominate. Cheap foam plugs, custom moulded plugs (either passive or with electronics), over ear muffs (either passive or with electronics). Key thing is to look for highest NRR. If you plan to shoot disciplines within ISSF, protection with electronics is forbidden (FITASC will probably enforce that soon also, have no clue on your CPSA rules).
o Cheap foam plugs. IMO they are great. Have a good NRR (the yellow neon ones from 3M are NRR 36). But they need to be used correctly, and are meant for one use only.
o Moulded plugs. Great fit, difficult to use incorrectly. NRR is rarely over 29. Can be very expensive 400£ plus. The passive type have a shotkiller, so you can hear normal conversation ok, but close when noise is dangerous. Electronics do the same, but also enhance sounds and speak. Big advantage on a hunt.
o Over Ear muffs. Reasonably cheap, and depending on models up to NRR 36. Downside can be when you mount your gun, they can bump against the stock and thus letting noise in. They also can interfere with the arms of glasses. Electronics have the same features as the moulded electronics.
I personally use the foam ones AND over ear. I wear glasses, so I go for the double protection. And when I move the muffs, I’m still protected. To me another big advantage is that I feel isolated when shooting, then I can better concentrate on my things. I have the moulded passive type also (issued kit from Phonak). We are not allowed to use them any more in the army, due to H&S. NRR of those are 29. So if you plan on banging 200+ shots at a practice, I will not recommend the moulded ones. If you only shoot occasionally on a hunt, I’d say go for them. They will have earned them self back in 9 years compared to the cheap foam ones. As a side remark, we had to get new impressions every 3 years, beacuse apperently your earcanal change with age and weight.
- Eye protection. More and more ground require this. You have a lot of options if you dont need corrections. If you need corrections it’s becoming more limiting and a bit more expensive. You have a very good man in England, and if i was there I would go see him. Some High Streets opticians can help, but I would look for an optician who also shoots, so they understand what you need.
You can get a lot of different colours for your lenses. A major brand has so many, that to me personally it creates more “noise” than good. I need to wear corrections, so I have some inserts in mine. If I could afford it, I’d buy lenses in colour with corrections (and drop the inserts). I have 3 colours but actually use one 85% of the time. I think our eyes are very different, so a colour that suits me in a certain light condition, most likely wouldn’t be the best for you. So see if you can find a place to try before buy (or you can swap to another colour for a minor fee/free).
- Clothing. Also this is a very personal thing. General outline is: be able to move, and be comfortable. A good thing is either a shooting vest, or a shell pouch. I prefer the vest, but that’s a personal preference.
- Cleaning. People get their head in a twist over this. Short end is, get some grease, oil, and a cleaning solvent. A rod with copper brush and a jag. Use old rags for cleaning, and standard bog roll for barrels. Grease the pressurepoints/hingepins. Lubricate moving parts. Name of grease and oil doesn’t matter as long as you use it. Some clean every time they have shot a shot. Others never. I do it once a week (or when I have been out in foul weather). I take the stock of every couple of months and clean springs/firing pins. I have yet to do anything to the wood, factory finish is still good.
This and that.
When you start to shoot, you will experience a lot of clubhouse wisdom (and internet BS). By that I mean it’s a strange mix of many years of experience and some anecdotal beliefs. It can be very difficult to navigate in (what is usefull knowledge and what is annecdotal legends). But let it all in, and then sort to your own temper and what you can afford. You don’t need the complete range of Pilla X7 glasses, wearing CENS superduper electronic defenders, shooting the bespoke Holland and Holland with the most expensive italian custom made loads. Well actually I’d love to have it all, except the CENS .
But I must admit, it is kind of embarrising seeing people with all the gear and no idea (but very satisfying to score better than them regularly).
Find out what discipline you like to shoot and concentrate on that. You can shoot other disciplines, but if you mix to much you’ll never get good at any. Practice regimen is personal, I normalt go 3 rounds of 25 Olympic Trap a session 2-3 times a week (May to end of September, minus July). I have in one season gone from 15-17 with a lot of chipped targets and second barrel, to 19-22 with very few chipped and most first barrel. That’s including change of gun, and a fit of the Miroku after 2 months. Go to competitions, it gives another dimension to your shooting. For me personally I shoot better in competition. The added pressure gives the game a whole new perspective.
But please pay attention to etiquette where you shoot, adhere to the rules of the game you participate in and pay attention to safety. Be friendly and people will help and be friendly to you (might take some time, a lot of people have been shooting together for years). Stay around after a shoot and participate in social life,and you’ll find some of the nicest people around (and the occational baffoon).
And remember whatever gun you buy, that’s the minor investment. You’ll spend way more on cartridges, clays, registration fees, petrol, food and accomadation.
Lars
Last edited by a moderator:
. And I very much appreciate the feed back 
