Beretta 694 sporting choke replacements
- Thread starter Southern
- Start date
Help Support :
Usual candidates should be available but I bought Teague Titanium (standard extended) in 3/8 & 5/8 and they were fine. Allowed me to take one of the 40g weights out of the stock - not much of weight saving but the gun is a bit heavy overall. The Teagues lock up tight enough with some Rocol Sapphire grease.
Chokes are tapered tubes that may or may not have a parallel section. There's little to no evidence that Brand A performs better than Brand B. Some people pick snazzy looking chokes but looks don't break targets. In reality you only need to decide between extended or flush and whether or not you want to alter the balance by adding or losing weight at the muzzles.
Extended chokes help protect the muzzles from getting dinged and are usually easier to change.
Extended chokes help protect the muzzles from getting dinged and are usually easier to change.
Will Hewland
Well-known member
I have a 694 and just bought another Beretta 1/4 choke so use two same.
Will Hewland
Well-known member
Play cartridges, it’s easier and they make far more difference..
Very good point tbf ….
mpmilo
Well-known member
Beretta make 3/8 in the black DLC chokes and the flush fit which I have in my 694. Look on GMK shop. https://www.gmk.co.uk/shop/cat/chokes
Luke_(NL)
Well-known member
- Joined
- Aug 9, 2019
- Messages
- 646
Beretta just labels the chokes in a different way. Their LM (Light Modified) should be 3/8, as its sits between IC (Improved Cylinder) at 1/4 and M (Modified) which is 1/2. I also think that you'll be hard pressed to tell the difference between 1/4 and 3/8, but the mental game counts too. Varying shells may work better and is a more tangible 'scratch' to the itch we all have to get better at breaking clays by purchasing more stuff 
Last edited:
jesflorida
New member
- Joined
- Feb 9, 2021
- Messages
- 1
I sold my 694, and still have the Briley 360Click Quick adapters and many chokes.
Takes less than 10 seconds to remove one choke and install another choke.
If interested, I’ll send contact info, photos, and price
Takes less than 10 seconds to remove one choke and install another choke.
If interested, I’ll send contact info, photos, and price
mpmilo
Well-known member
Personally I find the 3/8 closer to the 1/2 than the 1/4. More like a .18 rather than .15. I tried the 1/4 chokes in mine and found more chippy kills. Its all a confidence thing and with a decent cartridge , Fiocchi officials or Rossa s for longer stuff Im pretty confident.Beretta just labels the chokes in a different way. Their LM (Light Modified) should be 3/8, as its sits between IC (Improved Cylinder) at 1/4 and M (Modified) which is 1/2. I also think that you'll be hard pressed to tell the difference between 1/4 and 3/8, but the mental game counts too. Varying shells may work better and is a more tangible 'scratch' to the itch we all have to get better at breaking clays by purchasing more stuff
Hi Op
Why are you considering changing. I have settled on 1/2 & 1/2 on my 694, so keen to learn your thoughts.
Exactly where I am
Thinking along the same lines as you, having the same in both……
But sometimes I do mentally like the fact I can use a tighter choke without having to swap them in and out.
Chokes have been discussed a lot on this forum - I have posted this before but the Briley choke chart shows how much can be killed with less choke than you think - https://www.briley.com/p-60919-sporting-clays-choke-chart.aspx
For me many clays need less choke and a 1/4 is a must - almost drifting towards skeet.
Same chokes makes sense but if you can swap barrels why not use two different chokes and switch barrels at each stand - easy to do. Any other issues are solved with a change in cartridge - distance or close range.
For me many clays need less choke and a 1/4 is a must - almost drifting towards skeet.
Same chokes makes sense but if you can swap barrels why not use two different chokes and switch barrels at each stand - easy to do. Any other issues are solved with a change in cartridge - distance or close range.
I must be losing the plot plat - I am actually shooting 1/2 & 1/2, not 1/4 x2 as suggested
Luke_(NL)
Well-known member
- Joined
- Aug 9, 2019
- Messages
- 646
I use 1/4 and 1/4 for most everything. I might screw in a 1/2 if I would think to see far away stuff, but I mainly shoot skeet and compak.
Allegedly steel throws a tighter pattern than lead, and one is 'supposed' to use more open chokes to compensate. I can't really comment on that, having never shot the same cartridge in both a lead and steel variant at a pattern board. I find it counter-intuitive, especially for plastic wadded cartridges, by YMMV. Maybe @Bavarian could comment on this?
By weight there should be more steel pellets than lead ones, so pherhaps the spread of steel just looks denser than lead.
Allegedly steel throws a tighter pattern than lead, and one is 'supposed' to use more open chokes to compensate. I can't really comment on that, having never shot the same cartridge in both a lead and steel variant at a pattern board. I find it counter-intuitive, especially for plastic wadded cartridges, by YMMV. Maybe @Bavarian could comment on this?
By weight there should be more steel pellets than lead ones, so pherhaps the spread of steel just looks denser than lead.
westley
Well-known member
I am using a recently acquired 30 years old Classic Doubles fitted with 2 x 1/4 Briley Invector chokes. I use mainly Cheddite or Fiocchi 24 and 28 gram cartridges. I certainly don't feel 'under gunned' on any of the targets I encounter. I do keep a box of 'World Cups' by Express, in my bag, just in case there are any exceptionally long targets.
