Cleaning rod/kit suggestions?

[El Spavo]

Yeah, I can't afford either of those but the wire wool should brush the Lannie up a treat.

 

[westley]

Yeah, I can't afford either of those but the wire wool should brush the Lannie up a treat.

I know what you mean about the cost (and lack) of water, not too sure about the soap though  ?         :good:

In case you are struggling to find 0000 grade steel wool, wood finishers/french polishers suppliers stock it.   Spray some oil on the outside of the barrels and a bit of GENTLE rubbing, with the steel wool, will remove any light rust spots that may occur. 

 

[El Spavo]

Thanks. Gave it it's first clean the other day, managed to get the 0000 on a nylon jag inside the barrels andit came up really well, but a couple of streaks inside remained so I've ordered a Payne Galway brush so I can get at them a bit better, hopefully with a bit more pressure in the right places. Rest of it came up nicely, but got a couple of questions if anyone can help?...

1. What's the best thing to get fingerprints off metal as I coudn't get a smear which looking like one of the curve just under the engraved bit of the action.

2. Are there any diagrams as to what/where exactly I should be greasing and how much? I used it very lightly and put it around the choke threads, ejectors and where the pivot pins are, but as I'm new to all this I don't really follow when people in general discussion say, "ah, you need to smear a small amount on the fulcrum gudgeon splankly thust bearing", so a picture paints a thousand words, as they say and I'm sure there are some do's and do not's that I need to learn.

 

[Will Hewland]

Thanks. Gave it it's first clean the other day, managed to get the 0000 on a nylon jag inside the barrels andit came up really well, but a couple of streaks inside remained so I've ordered a Payne Galway brush so I can get at them a bit better, hopefully with a bit more pressure in the right places. Rest of it came up nicely, but got a couple of questions if anyone can help?...

1. What's the best thing to get fingerprints off metal as I coudn't get a smear which looking like one of the curve just under the engraved bit of the action.

2. Are there any diagrams as to what/where exactly I should be greasing and how much? I used it very lightly and put it around the choke threads, ejectors and where the pivot pins are, but as I'm new to all this I don't really follow when people in general discussion say, "ah, you need to smear a small amount on the fulcrum gudgeon splankly thust bearing", so a picture paints a thousand words, as they say and I'm sure there are some do's and do not's that I need to learn.

Don’t bust a gut keeping inside of barrels mirror-like. Just no real reason.. It is far more important to keep ejectors, hinge points and breech face looked after. I’m sure we will bump into each other soon, I’ll show you, even better than photos..

 

[El Spavo]

Will do, and thanks again will.

No hint of sarcasm, but I find it truly fascinating and amusing the amount of varied opinions on what to do with every aspect of shooting. In such a sometimes dull world it's brilliant! 

 

[MartynB]

Two days ago  , one of my cleaning rods broke . It was tubular aluminium,  Outers brand , 3 piece rod with a plastic T Handle . Great tool for a good scrub, unfortunately the T handle disintegrated after only 20 odd years of being splashed with various aggressive bore cleaners 

Thanks to the wonders of eBay , the posty  has just delivered a Napier two piece rod . Solid aluminium , two pieces and a whopping 13mm diameter . Easily long enough for 32” barrels . Probably the strongest rod I’ve seen . It doesn’t have a T bar but it does have a nice turned grip . 

At £16 delivered it’s not the cheapest , but I reckon it’s as good as you will ever find . 

 

[El Spavo]

Whatever rod set  you finally end up with * , a good tip is also to buy a “ Payne Gallwey “  brush , for scrubbing the chambers through the forcing cones area  , as this is where the fouling can be heaviest . You can just use the first section of rod as a chamber brush handle for the P- G  . Also if you have the spare cash ,  a Paradox Gun Cleaner ( sheep on a stick ! ) isn’t a bad thing to have for a quick cleanup of the barrels .Don’t waste money buying cloth cleaning patches , kitchen roll is perfect for the job .   

* I’ve got a Decathalon  kit in the car boot for emergencies . It’s  “all right for the money “, but  the biggest issue is the threads don’t fit standard Parker Hale / Bisley  brushes , jags etc etc .

Thanks for all the tips fellas, think I'm pretty much up to speed on what and how to clean (although I might have a chat about summat with you when I see you next Will... remind me cos I'll forget... again! ). That decathlon kit turned out to be more useful than I thought: Martyn, you're right that in doesn't really fit the 'standard' brushes... unless you turn them round the other way. Sussed it that the biggest area of fouling was the forcing cones and just after, and the Payne Galway fits perfectly on the wrong brass end of the stick so I use that to give them a good going over as it's nice and short and gets to the cones fine, then push it through the barrel with the other two rods with a bit of kitchen towel on't end to clean it up until it all falls out the muzzle. By using the single piece of the three rods to do it you can get a good purchase on the grime cos it's such a short length.

Just my tuppence worth to chuck in.

(Still after a nice one piece that's not too expensive though! )

 

[El Spavo]

While I'm at it, I notice that some rods have large t-piece handles but the gunmaker I got my gun from and a few other sources say one should push the rod from the breach end right through to the muzzle, and not pull it back so you don't drag crap backwards through... so how does that work when the t-piece obviously won't go through?!

 

[MartynB]

Ha ! I’m up early and having a cup of tea , as I’m  setting off before 6, driving a hundred and seventy miles to look at a gun this morning  So I’ll beat the traffic and have breakfast in the Cotswolds . ! 

As for the T handle , as I always clean the barrels off of the action ,  it matters not where the muck goes  during the wire brushing , as you say push the muck out one way with Kitchen Roll.I always remove , clean and lubricate the ejectors every couples of months as well . I know there is a theory that you can go months without cleaning guns , but mechanical sympathy never hurts . 

My new favourite wire brush is from the Skipton Gun Room a normal style brass wire brush , but very nice quality - and twice as long as standard . 

. 

 

[El Spavo]

Yeah, I fully dismantle every time I clean but I just had it in my head that it's one way only whatever you're doing... so that's just what I do.

 

[Martinj]

While I'm at it, I notice that some rods have large t-piece handles but the gunmaker I got my gun from and a few other sources say one should push the rod from the breach end right through to the muzzle, and not pull it back so you don't drag crap backwards through... so how does that work when the t-piece obviously won't go through?!

My tuppence worth, bearing in mind that this is the 50th post on how to use a cleaning kit :drool:

It's best to push the bronze brush all the way through before pulling it back, (crap and all) the reason for this is that you will destroy your brush if you change direction while in the barrels. The new brush has a nice spiral and is the optimum diameter, once you have changed direction in the barrel all that goes to pot and it will look a mess. Here endeth the lesson.

The aforementioned  "crap" will be removed by pushing through kitchen towel afterwards.

 

[schmokinn]

Thanks for all the tips fellas, think I'm pretty much up to speed on what and how to clean (although I might have a chat about summat with you when I see you next Will... remind me cos I'll forget... again! ). That decathlon kit turned out to be more useful than I thought: Martyn, you're right that in doesn't really fit the 'standard' brushes... unless you turn them round the other way. Sussed it that the biggest area of fouling was the forcing cones and just after, and the Payne Galway fits perfectly on the wrong brass end of the stick so I use that to give them a good going over as it's nice and short and gets to the cones fine, then push it through the barrel with the other two rods with a bit of kitchen towel on't end to clean it up until it all falls out the muzzle. By using the single piece of the three rods to do it you can get a good purchase on the grime cos it's such a short length.

Just my tuppence worth to chuck in.

(Still after a nice one piece that's not too expensive though! )

Tetra or army surplus

 

[rocky]

Not always true about a rod just being a rod.  Over nearly 60 years I have accumulated  several types of cleaning rod, most of the wooden/brass jointed rods waggle around like nothing on earth, the brass being loose on the shrunken wood and the 3 piece variety are even worse. I have 4 aluminium rods of American distribution, 1 x one piece, 2 x two piece and 1 x three piece. These are my full time cleaning rods and they remain assembled permanently.  Two of the rods have the 'Bisley'  solid bronze type brushes (sometimes called chamber brushes). 1 in 12 bore, the other being in 20 bore. The other 2 rods are fitted with 2 split plastic jags of 12 bore gauge. One or two sweeps with the bronze brush and then the same with the Napier 'super clean ' patch material, in the split jag. ONLY if there is any fouling (usually around the forcing cone/chamber area) will I use Phillips spray cleaner and some balls of kitchen towel. Strips of kitchen towel wrapped around the plastic jag also works well.  I carry a Bore-Snake in each gun case, but only use them if I am shooting away from home.  Buy a small can of spray 3 in 1 oil and the same in WD40. Carry them in your shooting bag. If it is raining at the start of the day, whip off the forend and spray the barrels with 3 in 1 oil. Wipe off surplus with kitchen towel. If the gun gets wet, spray the barrels inside and out with WD40 before putting back in gunslip for the journey home.  I like the Lucas red gun oil  and the Lucas red grease, both off fleabay, cheap enough, good stuff and last for ever. Worth a look, I always use the red oil on my chokes and have NEVER had one stuck.

3 in 1 spray, when did that happen? 

 

[westley]

3 in 1 spray, when did that happen? 

I think it was made for the Lycra brigade er..................to stop squeaks   !     Either way it is a handy size for the range bag.