Gun cleaning for the Muppet

[ChrisPackham]

I have the Napier one, its OK for finishing off but doesn't clean crap out of barrels, Parralax seems to though...

 

[ips]

um, well whatever make mine is I have used it on dozens of guns and its brought barrells up spotless.

 

[westley]

i have a 391 semi and have never had a gun barrel so difficult to get clean in between breech and gas holes, tried everything bit still leaves a few marks  even when i use a payne galway in my battery drill. looked on a usa site and discovered a home brew calle eds red . mix it yourself and store in kilner jar till clean time

it works ok but srill have to scrub.  i think because it is a semi with only 1 barrel then there is twice as much heat and rubbish. i usually shoot about 100 per hour

2 Beretta auto's a 303 and 391. Never had a problem cleaning them in the same way as my other guns (mentioned above). The 391 is a pain with the over engineering on the valve assemblies, the 303 being less complicated. The only thing that I have noticed is, if you go overboard with the lubrication on the piston rod/breech area, it will carbon more than usual and it will 'bake on' resulting in finding a scrubber to remove it !

 

[525kev]

I have the best method of cleaning ..........the husband 

Explain please how you clean your Husband, Is it a mop or drill ?

 

[Wonko the Sane]

I would go mostly with westly except for the motor oil.  I'm not really a fan of auto products on guns.The demands and objectives are just too different.  If you do somehow feel compelled to use motor oil get the absolutely lightest grade you can find.  I use spray gun oils since the amounts required are minuscule, a can lasts forever, and requires no bother storing.  On the grease front I use teflon loaded stuff on hinge pins, cocking rods, and anything that moves in the trigger.  It's not like gease really, more carrier with the teflon.

If you use metal brushes you might want to make sure they are not steel of any kind as that is way harsh on the barrel - and not necessary.

The fluffy stick thing is or should be a required cleaning tool.  The two-piece I have in the case is 20+ yrs old and washed several times.  Still the basic tool.  I hear the snakes are cool too.

 

[525kev]

Ok thanks, that's my cleaning bucket sorted, I dare say i'll swop/change as i go along but this gets me on the right lines

 

[balltrap]

I think so, I never clean my barrels unless I know I won't be shooting for at least a week and then I just give them once through with a patch and a bit of barrel cleaner as stated earlier. As long as the barrels are completely dry I don't see what you can gain polishing up the barrels... its like cleaning a wok... you just don't do it :lol:




 




 

After using my wok it gets a wipe with oil everytime .................................a dry wok is a poor wok :angel:

Sorry wrong forum :lol:

 

[Sian]

Explain please how you clean your Husband, Is it a mop or drill ?

Depends how naughty he's been ?

 

[danq]

i was led to beleive that the piston and rod of the 391 should not be oiled but left dry,being a 50 year time served engineer this is totally against the grain if it moves oil it, i use a q tip (one of the wifes NOT mine)  dipped in a small amount of 20-30 engine oile because it is more stable in heat and less carbon forming. after a 200 shot outing i get a darkening of the metal which rubs off with any gun cleaner and a stiff rag, or stainless pot scourer , lightly applied. most carbon tends to get inside the gas piston housing which i strip and clean approx every 1000 -2000 rounds also totally stipping all the moving parts . i also have a small air line which i find excellent aid to cleaning.for blowing out all the nooks and crannies

 

[westley]

I have the best method of cleaning ..........the husband 

I do hope you use one of those fluffy brush things then !

Wonko,

Never had a problem with the car engine oil, I just do an oil change every 1000 cartridges or so.  I only use an oil soaked rag on the outside metalwork and engine oil does not run into the woodwork, whichever way up the gun is. 

 

[Wonko the Sane]

Westly -

My objection to motor oil is that it is formulated for entirely different demands.  And any oil will migrate - how much depends not on the oil but how much there is of it.  I mean, it's a fluid, innit?  And why isn't the wood sealed anyway?  Whether you're after rust prevention or lubrication specifically formulated gun oils will likely prove superior to motor oil.  I know they are more expensive but how much do you use?  And how can anyone that pays $0.20 every time just to hear a bang (not to mention the $100/day more or less in attendant costs) get scrooge enough to look for cheap oil?

just sayin'

 

[westley]

Westly -

My objection to motor oil is that it is formulated for entirely different demands.  And any oil will migrate - how much depends not on the oil but how much there is of it.  I mean, it's a fluid, innit?  And why isn't the wood sealed anyway?  Whether you're after rust prevention or lubrication specifically formulated gun oils will likely prove superior to motor oil.  I know they are more expensive but how much do you use?  And how can anyone that pays $0.20 every time just to hear a bang (not to mention the $100/day more or less in attendant costs) get scrooge enough to look for cheap oil?

just sayin'

I hear you, I hear you !  I do listen  (well with 1 ear anyway !). I will continue to clean my guns as always. Especially the 725 'black',   cos I have it on good authority,  that they come out of the factory with rust on anyway.   

 

[Wonko the Sane]

Some steel wool will get you down to clean metal in no time at all   :console: