Winchester 101XTR Ejector timing

[Martinj]

Hello All,

I have a Winchester 101XTR that I bought new 37 years ago, I used it for years before semi retiring it but it still gets used from time to time as I occasionally let other people use it. The problem I have noticed is that it is becoming a struggle to eject the empty cartridges.
Sometimes I'll push the top lever across to let the barrels drop after firing but the ejectors don't activate, I have to make an effort to push the barrels as far as they will go to get the ejectors to fire out the cartridges so what is going on?
Has anyone had a similar issue?
is there a solution?
Both ejectors fire together when they do work but I'm thinking there might come a time when they won't work at all.

 

[Freddypip]

I don't know anything about this really but my daughter used a 101 and I think it's prone to the kickers cracking and/or wearing.

This might, or might not be relevant.

 

[Martinj]

Are kickers the same thing as Ejector hammers?

 

[Freddypip]

Yes - sorry for the vernacular - but I'm not saying that's the issue just that they do crack and with Izzy's that was shown up in timing issues and then failure.

The crack was pretty obvious and both were replaced.

 

[Martinj]

OK, thanks for your response, I have looked at mine while still assembled in the forestock, they look OK and don't look worn. I think that it's whatever kicks them into action that is getting worn so they eject later and later

 

[westley]

I would be tempted to take the gun to a Gunsmith, there are several things that can affect ejector timing.

 

[Luke_(NL)]

Not sure about the system the Winchesters use, but I would assume that excess wear would have the ejectors activating earlier rather than late. Could just be that the barrels don't "drop" to where the ejectors are activated for another reason entirely. You appear to be saying that it takes a little push to open the gun completely? I'd check for burrs, dirt, muck, (excess or lack of) lubrication and make it all shiny and oiled to see if that resolves the incomplete opening first.

 

[Martinj]

Thanks Luke, there could be a build-up of crud somewhere that goes undiscovered during my fairly thorough cleaning sessions. If there's some undiscovered crevice it would have 37 years worth of build-up in it. Thinking about it I have never had the fore-end apart which is where some of the related parts live. (I may never get it back together again.)


If that fails then I might take Wesley's advice - kerching!

 

[westley]

Thanks Luke, there could be a build-up of crud somewhere that goes undiscovered during my fairly thorough cleaning sessions. If there's some undiscovered crevice it would have 37 years worth of build-up in it. Thinking about it I have never had the fore-end apart which is where some of the related parts live. (I may never get it back together again.)


If that fails then I might take Wesley's advice - kerching!

I have taken the woodwork off the metal on the forend, it is only 3 screws. Make a note OF WHICH SCREW GOES WHERE ! That way they should go back and line up with the factory made marks. My gun has 2 sets of woodwork, Trap and Sporting, I fitted the Trap woodwork to try it but went back to the Sporting woodwork. That entailed taking the ironwork off the wood on the forend. I did use correctly fitting screwdriver bits too, that avoids damage to the screw heads. Put a blob of BLUE loctite on the screws when replacing them.

 

[Luke_(NL)]

Thinking about it I have never had the fore-end apart which is where some of the related parts live. (I may never get it back together again.)

That's a quite a few parts indeed, so good luck and I hope it works out well (and solves the issue). As per Westley's advice: correctly fitting screwdriver bits are a must. I've taken metalwork out of a number of forends and in most cases the assemblies were self contained so I've never had bit flying about (yet) and have so far managed to put everything back in working order. Knock on wood