Someone who's good with wood...

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Jimbob 2705

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Jan 4, 2015
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37
Got a bit of a challenge for someone, regarding a stock that I've got ;)

 
Photos are here : https://flic.kr/s/aHsk7B2fSj
 
Basically it's a Miroku MK38 Stock, which has been hollowed/cutout out to fit a recoil damper unit, the same as this : ' alt='' class='ipsImage' >
 
Now the issue is that I want to fit another buttpad which uses different screw/mounting holes, and unfortunately I can't as they would go where the hollow/cutout is :(
 
So I need this filled in, with something that I can screw the new recoil pad onto....so I'm guessing a piece of wood made to fit and glued in, or a suitable alternative?
 
The challenging bit is that I'll still need a hole through the middle so I can get to the stock bolt :eek: :D
 
 
So is there anyone out there who is willing to do it for me, or recommend anyone? :)
 
 
Many Thanks,
 
James
 
Ruddy ell someone's made a pigs ear of that.

 
To be honest as its basically out of sight id get some soft wood from B&Q cut it down and stick it in with wood glue /couple of screws to bridge the gap and screw a new pad on.

That's all a gunsmith would do when fitting a new pad.

As for the hole.. just drill out the wood insert when the insert is fitted.

 
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I'd do the the same as what Paul said but what you have got to think about is the weight your going to add re fitting the woo git won't be a lot but it will put the center balence point back

 
I know a Guy that could sort it, but where are you ? This chap is in Lancs.. If you required the balance point altering, now would be a good time to do that too.

 
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I have an extremely well figured Perazzi stock that was originally very heavy, and put the balance of the gun too far back, a problem created by buying a gun with too lighter barrels, I've lived and learned from that experience.

Malcolm Jenkins removed a lot of wood and created a large cavity inside to reduce the weight.  As always his work was neat and tidy and the butt end of the cavity was radius'd so that he could glue, with Cascamite I think, a matching radius'd piece of wood at either end in order to be able to screw fit the butt pad back on. This still left the large cavity and access through the pad for the stock key.  

BTW Browning/Miroku do an allen headed stock bolt as a replacement for the slot headed type, I've got one fitted to my Miroku and a hole drilled in the pad so the stock can be removed easily with a Perazzi stock key and no fiddling around removing the pad and damaging the screw holes either.  

 
If you want a bit of American walnut to put in there let me know, I have some left over from making pistol grips.

Mike

 
Its a very simple job to repair the difficulty is making sure the density of the filler is the same as the original wood. All you need is a piece of dowel rod of the same diameter as the stock bolt hole and some cling film. Wrap the dowel rod with cling film  and insert into the stock hole  then fill around with the filling material, when it has gone off remove the dowel rod the cling film will be left behind which is no big deal. Drill and screw there after. If you could get a load of walnut sawdust that would be good well mixed with PVA for a filler. But I would guess there must be some two pack fillers that will have a density similar to the original wood. I would not waste time and money getting anybody to do that job for me its a Miroku not a Purdey !!

 
This stuff will work, used it to fill in a worn screw hole on my stock, density / weight should be problem.  Its like putty, mix the two components together in you hand and mould to what ever shape you want, it will se rock hard after a few hours, you can machine /shape it if needed

 http://www.milliput.com/

 
I have loads of walnut kicking about from making stocks, (could make you a whole new one)

Not a problem inletting a piece and putting a stock bolt tube in.

 
Hi All,

Many thanks for all the help and suggestions - really appreciate it! 

Right, looks like I'll be giving it a go myself! I'll be sending a couple of PM's as a I don't have any bits of hardwood around, so I may be buying a bit off one of you nice chaps!

Anybody recommend any particular wood glue?

Many Thanks,

James

 
Hi All,

Many thanks for all the help and suggestions - really appreciate it!

Right, looks like I'll be giving it a go myself! I'll be sending a couple of PM's as a I don't have any bits of hardwood around, so I may be buying a bit off one of you nice chaps!

Anybody recommend any particular wood glue?

Many Thanks,

James
Titebond Original. Yellow glue, very good and stronger than the wood!

 
Titebond Original. Yellow glue, very good and stronger than the wood!
Perfect, I'll try and get some of that then!

Regarding leaving a hole for the stock bolt...anybody know the best way to go about this?

Would it be to make the piece fit the cutout well than somehow mark where to drill for the hole...

Or drill the hole first and then shape the wood?

Thanks!

 
Perfect, I'll try and get some of that then!

Regarding leaving a hole for the stock bolt...anybody know the best way to go about this?

Would it be to make the piece fit the cutout well than somehow mark where to drill for the hole...

Or drill the hole first and then shape the wood?

Thanks!
Get a bit of .75 inch dowel or pipe or something that fits on what remains of the stock bolt hole.

Mark on the stock (end and sides) on tape, where that dowel extends to...looks pretty central.  Then, when you block is in place, you can use those marks to align, then drill out the hole again.

I would be inclined to square off the inside of the stock, so as to make it easier to fit a square "peg" in a square hole.

By the way.  That "messy", rout, is actually about right for an ISIS, which requires a selection of round holes to be bored, for best fit with least wood removal.  This is also BLOODY hard to do, with the stock bolt hole there, getting in the way.

A better solution would be to put an ISIS in there, because they are amazing and everyone should have one :)

 
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Get a bit of .75 inch dowel or pipe or something that fits on what remains of the stock bolt hole.

Mark on the stock (end and sides) on tape, where that dowel extends to...looks pretty central. Then, when you block is in place, you can use those marks to align, then drill out the hole again.

I would be inclined to square off the inside of the stock, so as to make it easier to fit a square "peg" in a square hole.

By the way. That "messy", rout, is actually about right for an ISIS, which requires a selection of round holes to be bored, for best fit with least wood removal. This is also BLOODY hard to do, with the stock bolt hole there, getting in the way.

A better solution would be to put an ISIS in there, because they are amazing and everyone should have one :)
Thanks for that - sounds ideal!

I bought the gun with the ISIS recoil damper system, but I would like more drop at heel, hence getting an adjustable butt pad system.

I am going to get the ISIS adjustable one, but it uses different mounting holes unfortunately, hence the need to fill the wood in!

Anybody know if secondhand ISIS recoil damper units are worth anything? Problem is I guess is that its been shaped to my stock, so if yours is bigger it won't fit that well.

Many Thanks

James

 
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Thanks for that - sounds ideal!

I bought the gun with the ISIS recoil damper system, but I would like more drop at heel, hence getting an adjustable butt pad system.

I am going to get the ISIS adjustable one, but it uses different mounting holes unfortunately, hence the need to fill the wood in!

Anybody know if secondhand ISIS recoil damper units are worth anything? Problem is I guess is that its been shaped to my stock, so if yours is bigger it won't fit that well.

Many Thanks

James

If you get the ISIS adjustable plate, you could fit that to the Recoil Unit (it is how mine is set up).

Have you ever shot the gun with the recoil unit?

If you decide to get rid of the ISIS unit, give me a shout, I might be able to make use of it.

 

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