Newbie Gun care questions

[Trippyhippy]

I have recently got my first gun and have worked out the cleaning of the metal bits but am a bit unsure on the wood bits is it just a can of polish or do I need to invest in some special oil??

Also when I purchased the gun I get the first service free but forgot to ask when this gets done is it in x number of cartridges or x amount of time?

Many Thanks

 

[Fuzrat]

All depends on how your stock is finished, oiled or laquered (Varnished) on my laquered mk38 its just a quick wipe off. With an oiled stock I used to give it a couple of drops of this http://www.avalon-guns.com/avalon/info_59480.htm rubbed in with the palm of your hand to create some friction heat which helps it into the grain. Not often maybe every couple of months or so.

As for service, assuming you bought it new with warranty, get it done just before it runs out and any problems could be sorted under that Mine gets done every 6 months or so by me. Just a stock off visual inspection, clean any crud out of the action and a light re-oil. Only sees a gunsmith if something goes bang, or not as the case maybe :.:

 

[Salopian]

If it's a Krieghoff it is every twelve months, Perazzi when the ribs come loose, Beretta when either the barrels come unsoldered or the inertia mechanism packs up, Blaser when you realise the barrels shoot to different points of aim, Miroku every twenty years or so if you ignore chipped firing pins. :lol: :.: :lol: :.:

Incidentally with regards to stock finish, if it's an oil finish I continue to oil it.

But you could probably treat every gun with a coat of good quality furniture polish (paste not spray) and do no harm.

 

[TobyM]

Ask when the free service is due, and you might as well use it.

As for wood treatment, as per Salopian. You could probably bingle it and find something specifically for stocks. I think there is one which darkens it, but I can't remember what it's called.

I've had my Miroku 6000 from new in 1997 and never had it serviced. It's fine and still has a tight action.

 

[Tom]

Not to hijack the thread but, I bought a second hand gun a few months ago and I don't know wether it has been serviced, I normally like to service things when I get them such as cars so I know exactly where I am

With it.

What sort of cost is involved with a service? And can I just unscrew the stock and see the gizzards of the action or is it a precision job to line the stock back up?

Didn't want to start a new thread.

Cheers,

Tom

 

[Will Hewland]

Taking the stock off should be easy, as is the refit as it self aligns. More fiddle o start playing with innards though..

 

[Tom]

I wouldn't start fiddling with the workings until I know a lot more but would Like to take the stock off to see how dirty the action is and clean then re-grease it.

Cheers,

Tom

 

[Fuzrat]

Must admit I tend to steer clear of grease inside the action, tends to attract too much gunk and goes sticky and hard. much prefer to give it a light oil in there.

 

[Tom]

Good tip Fuzrat, what do you use to clean the action out?

Cheers,

Tom

 

[Will Hewland]

Leave the action alone unless you know it has had a severe soaking or something. (And I am a manic cleaner / preparer). It is in a protected environment so should stay good for years. You may want to clean out the firing pin bores once a year, but thats about it and far less tricky than touching the main works.

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[Fuzrat]

Good tip Fuzrat, what do you use to clean the action out?

Cheers,

Tom

I spray a bit of the napier vp90 in there then paper towel it off and Q tip cotton wool stick thingies for the hard to reach bits. leave it overnight on a piece of kitchen roll so any excess drips out then a LIGHT oiling using an oily rag and Q tips rather than pouring it in. Too much oil and if stored stock down it will seep into your woodwork causing it to become soft and maybe crack.

I tend to look on it like proofing a skillet, little oil so it "soaks" into the metal, looks dry but has a really thin coating of lubrication. enough to prevent rust and keep things moving but not swimming in it. I tend to do this maybe every 6 months but definitely if it has been drowned

As Clever said earlier, if you dont know what you are looking at dont fiddle with it

 

[Will Hewland]

Apologies chaps, by `action` I was thinking you meant the whole tricky bit around the springs.. twit. Just the section that incorporates the barrels, no problem. As Fuz says. I then use a long sharpened match to push a bit of paper around in the tricky areas.

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[Fuzrat]

Thats the bit I mean, take stock off and expose the action.

BUT and a big but (beyonce size) I was born into a shooting family and have been watching and helping both my dad and my grandad before that strip guns down and repair them (Grandad used to be a furniture maker and was a master carver, made some superb gunstocks for a sideline. Doubt if I will ever see chequering as fine as that he did on a new stock for my dads aya no4 again)

Again, if in doubt dont touch. Just like you wouldnt play with your car brakes if you didnt know your spanner from your hammer Mind you ive substituted spanner for hammer to good effect on occaisions :lol: :.:

 

[Trippyhippy]

Again, if in doubt dont touch. Just like you wouldnt play with your car brakes if you didnt know your spanner from your hammer Mind you ive substituted spanner for hammer to good effect on occaisions :lol: :.:

Isn't it if you can't fix it with a Hammer it's an Electrical problem.

 

[Darkside]

I seen a farms electrical problem "fixed" with a wooden shafted hammer.......the workshop fuse was tripping out when the welder was working, guess where the hammer went???