just ruined my stock...

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HankBomb

Active member
Joined
Oct 13, 2013
Messages
28
Location
Kent
Bought some walnut oil, and rubbed it in with the palm of my hand.

looked fantastic! all shiny and brought out all the detail in the stock.  I left it to dry for a day, then........buffed it?

what a mistake, the shiny sheen just ended up dull and smeary, it looks like someone has left chewing gum residue all over it. the more I buff it the duller it gets ??!!@?

is this right?

I thought I had read the distructions properly, but as anyone who was born in the 60's knows when you read small print on small labels you end up looking like you are playing the trumbone and even when you can focus all you can decipher is some ancient form of hieroglyphics.

No,  I will not wear glasses till I am 72.

How do I keep the shiny sheen? do you varnish it with some sort of polyurethane varnish to lock in the shine?

 
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Ok I am sure someone will come along and add their own comments but here is my take on it. If you are oiling a stock it is sometimes a good idea to strip the old oil/varnish off using nitromors and very fine grade steel wool. Once its back to bare wood you need to seal the grain by applying small amounts of oil, literally one or two drops using the technique you used. The oil should get hot and you work it in to the stock for say 20 to 30 minutes. Then leave the stock to absorb the oil, then you repeat the process, keep doing this until you get the finish you are after then leave the stock for a good 24 hours, do not varnish it or buff it, it will retain its gloss if done properly.

I doubt your stock is ruined, try applying another few drops of oil and get it hot using your palm, should get rid of the smears.

 
Don't panic, you prob put too much on then tried to buff it before it was properly dry. Try a small and i mean small amount of oil and rub it in this should get you back to a shine then leave it alone for a day then repeat only palm it in the heat generated by your hand will help, do not use a cloth at any time only palm in. I am not familiar with walnut oil but this works with rapid oil and red root oil so presumably will work with your product.

 
NO, NO, NO. Are you able to see this OR SHOULD I DO IT IN BLOCK CAPITALS ???????? Right, it sounds like you have put too much oil on and then left it to dry. I would now get some meths and strip the finish back and then allow it to dry for 24 hours. Put the tip of your index finger over the top of oil bottle (with the cap removed) and then dab the oil along the one side of the stock. Now rub it in with the palm of your hand. Do same to other side. Leave it for around an hour then with lint free cloth remove any surplus oil and leave to dry for 24 hours. Repeat this until desired gloss is achieved. Do not forget IF you use too much oil at any one time it will not dry. You then start with the meths all over again.

If you want a quicky so to speak, use Tru Oil. If not use the walnut oil you already have AND IF ALL ELSE FAILS, READ INSTRUCTIONS.

 
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rub it over with boiled linseed oil and 0000 grade wire wool  this will do no harm and should lift the sticky mess then when it is cleaned off use the linseed oil again and it will look good again.

 
Oh by the way, you may need them glasses before you reach 72 !!

 I have.
I need them now but I would rather grow a mullett and wear snowashed jeans......ah the good old 80's

 
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The Stock on a DT11 is finished with oil.

Oil is a sealer, wood can only take on so much oil, once wood is sealed that's it, it won't take on anymore.

I expect it didn't need oiling, and / or you applied too much. As said previously oil is not a 'flood and soak' product, it should be applied very thinly, a smear is all that's needed. I have used Walnut oil for woodturning. Walnut oil will cure naturally in a reasonble time when used properly. If you used a bucket load it will take a long time / not cure which I think is what you have experienced.

Oiled stocks would probably only need a light oiling once a year to keep the wood sealed and in top condition.

Easy fix either way, good luck with it

 
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many thanks,

so it sounds like the oily thing is not the way to get a shiny stock.

If it has enough oil on it can you just put a varnish over the top to seal it and get the shiny look?

 
The Stock on a DT11 is finished with oil.

Oil is a sealer, wood can only take on so much oil, once wood is sealed that's it, it won't take on anymore.

I expect it didn't need oiling, and / or you applied too much. As said previously oil is not a 'flood and soak' product, it should be applied very thinly, a smear is all that's needed. I have used Walnut oil for woodturning. Walnut oil will cure naturally in a reasonble time when used properly. If you used a bucket load it will take a long time / not cure which I think is what you have experienced.

Oiled stocks would probably only need a light oiling once a year to keep the wood sealed and in top condition.

Easy fix either way, good luck with it
The oil finish on DT11's is absolutly shocking!!! Mine took 5 coats of grain sealer to seal the grain, rub down with 2000 wet/dry paper and now it's had 5 coats of finishing oil!!!

 
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many thanks,

so it sounds like the oily thing is not the way to get a shiny stock.

If it has enough oil on it can you just put a varnish over the top to seal it and get the shiny look?
DO NOT VARNISH YOUR STOCK!!!

 
many thanks,

so it sounds like the oily thing is not the way to get a shiny stock.

If it has enough oil on it can you just put a varnish over the top to seal it and get the shiny look?
I use a little pure bees wax, buffs up lovely, smells quite nice also.

 
The oil finish on DT11's is absolutly shocking!!! Mine took 5 coats of grain sealer to seal the grain, rub down with 2000 wet/dry paper and now it's had 5 coats of finishing oil!!!
I second that, looks awful. will try some bees wax before taking a masters degree in stock finishing.

 
Was the walnut oil something you got off a supermarket shelf or is it proper stock oil?

Unsurprisingly a number of people have bought the former thinking - walnut stock therefore walnut oil must be ok.

However, proper stock oil has dryers and hardeners mixed with it to prevent the problem you seem to have encountered.

 
Oh Dear sounds nasty did the very same thing to my wifes gallery grade wood on her Beretta RUINED IT!  Matt is correct in stating the only way to repair is to rub down carefully and start from scratch.

Your problem has been a result of using a finish that has reacted with whatever was applied beforehand in my experience and after lots of stocks refinished is to go back to basics. :fie:

 

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