Gun stock - what oil...?

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newbie

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Apr 11, 2012
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Hi, I have a very nice sco grade wood essivere stock that isn't varnih finished. The stock has phenomenal grain but I am worried as its looking a bit dull in places where it got wet today.

I have been told to use boiled linseed oil to seal it. Is this right? Also, where it's dull it's lost some of the rich dark colouring. What should I use to bring the marbled effect out more and should I do this before using the boiled linseed..?

Advice appreciated.

 
I use walnut oil.

Dab on the palm and warmed between rubbing hands.

Then massage the stock.

Very very sparingly

 
Walnut oil, found it always gave best results when used in direct sunlight. Not that we've seen much of that lately.

 
The correct treatment for wood feeding is linseed oil. A perfect concoction sold at gunshops is 'Trade Secrets' stock oil as used by the leading gunmakers.

You can use linseed oil either raw or boiled which is much cheaper.

NOTE:- Use very sparingly, a drop the size of your thumb nail will be sufficient to oil a gunstock, allow to dry for about two hours and then buff up with the bare palm.

Very important, when you get your stock wet allow it to air dry in a warm room thoroughly before oiling otherwise you will be sealing in moisture.

Yes you can use Lemon Oil, but it is more cosmetic than nourishing.

 
Linseed is the base for all the "secret formula" products, and it's quite likely that walnut oil is mostly linseed too. Various additives exist which will accelerate the (wrongly named) drying process. I say wrongly named because it doesn't dry it polymerizes, which means it becomes highly viscous such that it feels dry to the touch. UV light speeds the process but heat slows it dramatically. You can buy the blended "secret ingredients" stuff from CCL or Trade Secrets for example and some gunsmiths have their own, but all they really are is linseed with chemical accelerants - which is pretty much what boiled linseed is. They work okay but you'll pay silly money for a tiny bottle. Personally I avoid boiled linseed because it darkens with age.

In my opinion, for amateur use, the best oil is part polymerized linseed which is sold in art shops, normally to artists who use it as a protective coating for oil paintings. As such it doesn't impose a colour bias, cures much more quickly than pure or boiled linseed and cost a few pounds for enough to do about 50 guns.

 
Ok, so a small drop inte palm fte hand, rub it in evenly, buff up nice dry (how long des that roughly ale?) with the palm of hand afterwards.... Is that it..? I want to use the gun Moore afternoon and about to oil Her up now....

 
Apply the oil with your forefinger, avoiding the checkering, leave in a warm room for about 45 minutes to soak in then buff with the palm of your hand. If you use too much oil it will just become a sticky mess. just a drop about 6mm round will do the whole stock.

Be patient, every day for a week, every week for a month, every month for a year, every now and again is the maxim.

 
Ok, first pass last night... I think I used too much, let it dry for a few hours then buffed off the excess. Looks great. Will do another coat later.

Thx for your advice.

 
My wife's gun is also looking a bit dull and lifeless at the moment. What do you use to clean the stock beofre applying oil? It looks a bit grubby here and there, can I just use soap and water (sparingly) or is there a solvent that would get it clean?

 
I use meths because there's always some around but any kind of alcohol is okay. Good cleaner but doesn't soften or dissolve the existing oil. Soap or detergent will leave a residue and you don't want that.

 
My wife's gun is also looking a bit dull and lifeless at the moment. What do you use to clean the stock beofre applying oil? It looks a bit grubby here and there, can I just use soap and water (sparingly) or is there a solvent that would get it clean?
I normally use lighter fluid, as it will help clean but not soak in, it just evaporates...that is on guitars normally (expensive ones though!).

 
Make sure you get all the dents out first or the whole job is a waste of time, use the steam iron technique (I can give full details of how to do this if required) 1st use a very fine (prob 1000 grade should do) wet and dry, lubricate it with a small amount of stock oil if needed and then very fine wire wool. Apply Rapid oil (which is a stock oil with the hardener added) very very small amounts allowed to dry between coats. Apply at least 6 coats, ensure that you palm in all of it before allowing to dry. Then for a very nice smooth finish buff it with a stock burnishing cream.

 
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