gun cabinet

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victorismyhero

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 2, 2013
Messages
46
Location
Cheshire
well got my gun cabinet installed, what a ball ache...yo8u see, we dont have internal walls, we have infernal walls. That is to say breeze (the nasty dark grey hollow crumbly stuff) and I didnt fancy drilling the concrete floor slab either, due to potential issues with puncturing the damp proof membrane AND i wanted my gun cabinet upright. So how to fasten securely, I mean really securely?

well I could in one place access both sides of one of these walls inside the building, AND one side was in my study  :eek:k:  SO...off to my local small engineering workshop and back with a piece of 3mm mild steel plate the same size as the back of the cabinet and drilled with 6 holes to match the bolt holes in the cabinet.

took plaster off wall both sides down to the breeze marked the hole positions and began to drill  :mole:  ....OH DEAR...it is at this point (hopefully) that you realise that in order for this cunning plan to work, ALL 6 holes must be exactly in the right place AND PERFECTLY perpendicular to the wall in two dimensions, or you are going to be in a world of pain when they dont match on both sides of the wall... :banghead:

Off to my work shop and 3 hrs later emerge triumphant with a "bodgit and scarper" perpendicular wall drilling jig and after a while six perfect holes. :biggrin:

Then used 12mm threaded bar through plate wall and cabinet, secured with shear head security nuts (nasty little blighters them...now rechristened em to "knuckle munchers") both sides (but leave the heads ON inside the cabinet (YOU may want to remove it). The plate was then given two coats of good quality metal primer and allowed to dry over night. It was then given 2 coats of diluted PVA adhesive (to help bond plaster)

when this was dry a layer of undercoat plaster with a feww "splodges" of pva adhesive added was applied and left to "go off" (takes forever over the steel plate because there is nothing behind to absorb water) once dry a layer of skim finnished the job neatly (even Mrs Victor was moved to comment ooooo ....smooooth). Now got to let this totally dry out and a bonus for Mrs Victor as I will repaint the entire hallway, and there will be no sign of this work .

The cabinet sits well down the length of the wall (not on a vulnerable end section) and to get the cabinet loose from here someone would have to basically demolish the wall :fie:

 
what if the FEO insists on it being fixed to the floor ?   :)

 
what if the FEO insists on it being fixed to the floor ?   :)
he cant.....the rules are not "prescriptive " but are instead (like many of these things ) requireative...that is to say..."shall be securely affixed so as to prevent............."   there is no HOW  described...its up to you how you do it.

scondly he cannot insist on a "fix" that potentially causes "building issues" (for example insisting on a fastening method for windows that would defeat the fire safety requirements where this is relevant)

and Finally....I bet this way of fastening is as secure as it gets, and exceeds the requirement of "as far as reasonably practical".  Within the study you cant even access the cabinet with anything that would give you leverage to jemmy it away

 
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addition to above.....and even if you could get to "jemmy  " it, there is still the issue that yo are going to have to pull a steel plate the size of the cabinet back through the wall.....uh...i dont think so...

dont forget these cabinets are only supposed to stop Bill burglar or the local bad lad getting his smelly mitts on your boom sticks....they are not, never were and never could be built "reasonably practically" to stop a determined "professional thief" after your Holland and Holland.. those guys wouldnt "jemmy" "hack at" or "sawthrough" anything...they would pick the lock or blow it or whatever...something quick clean,  in and out...not spend an hour of hard labour and noise, not to mention the risk of discovery. They are deterents, Not proofing.

 
Thunderbolts.......self tapping masonry fixings.
use em all the time ...brilliant things, but in this case useless...at least to the breeze wall...its not the fixing its the wall material...naff all pull out resistance...I could pull a thunderbolt out of this breeze stuff with my..............

 
I trust you took some pictures of all this work, so that they can SEE that you did it,rather than you just telling them... ;)

 
BTW folks, except those of you who have "digital" cabinets or fingerprint jobbies....what do yopu do with your ACTIVE gun cabinet keys ....NOOO...I dont want details...as you might feel you would have to kill me after revaling all......The spares i have quite adequately squirelled away, hopefully never to see the light of day for many a year...but those you used daily....hmmmm...

we could get into the logical absurdity that I have seen...where the keys to an expensive monster of a gun cabinet, which it seemed was howitzer proof, were kept , admittedly in another room, in a 17 quid digital "safe" from the big orange shed?? okaaaayyyyy......

or we could end up with......... i carry the key that opens the box that holds the key which opens the safe which has a key in it to open the box which contains the combination of the safe that............ :crazy:

on the other hand I could just hide the "active key" under the rottweilers food bowl???????

moreover...has anyones FAO ever asked about the security of your active keys?

 
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I carry the key that opens the box that has the keys that open the box.

And the first box is looked after by one of these  (11 ft Boa Constrictor Imperator)

snake-682_1078974a.jpg


 
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I see a nice snakeskin belt in that photo.

As for the breeze block wall, don't they sell a special retaining bolt just for breeze.

Phil*

 
" What happened to chemical anchors? "

I think most of them post on Pigeonwatch!

 
Thermalite blocks are hopeless to get a fixing to...even when you do, 5 mins with a sledge hammer would knock the wall down!!!

 

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