Beretta wood - needs a feed

Help Support :

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

AW13

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 29, 2013
Messages
915
Location
East Sussex
I have just picked up what feels like a sleeper gun.

A 2015 692 in new condition, it looks like it has been stored as it came in the case wrapped as a new gun.

My question - the wood feels very dry and there are some open pores so what's best to feed it with. My inclination was just a good quality wax but any advice is very welcome.

Thanks in advance.

 
My question - the wood feels very dry and there are some open pores so what's best to feed it with. My inclination was just a good quality wax but any advice is very welcome.

Thanks in advance.
That's quite normal for Beretta wood 

 
if its just a top up, boiled linseed oil from any DIY store is more than adequate

 
so add oil and not wax is the message i'm hearing.

CCL, linseed and Tru oil - looks like i need to have a look at these.

I also think it needs a gentle rub down before oiling.

Not shot it yet, I'm taking it out this afternoon for a practice, as this is my 1st Beretta it will be interesting to see how it shoots compared to my B725

Thanks

 
TruOil is a mixed brew containing both oil and varnish. It's okay if you want a quick job and a glossy almost synthetic looking finish but it doesn't have that silky feel of a proper oil finish. Boiled linseed is as good any of the expensive "secret formula" products out there although some folks on Pigeon Watch really rate the Slippery Dicks products, but I haven't tried them.

 
Just look up how to apply the finish you want, as it's easy to over apply any of the products mentioned 

 
TruOil is a mixed brew containing both oil and varnish. It's okay if you want a quick job and a glossy almost synthetic looking finish but it doesn't have that silky feel of a proper oil finish. Boiled linseed is as good any of the expensive "secret formula" products out there although some folks on Pigeon Watch really rate the Slippery Dicks products, but I haven't tried them.
i used tru oil sparingly on a stock     it looked like a kid of 5 had painted it on    glorified varnish      but it could have been the pilot   but i would not use it again !!!   

 
Interesting re tung oil. I have stripped, sanded and oiled our teak dining room table with tung oil. It looks really good.

Tung oil might be an option then.  Hmm

 
for £15 you get a purpose made product (CLL) and one bottle will last the life of the gun (or three,) why bother with alternatives just to save literally a few quid on what was a £3500 gun? If you are talking about putting in some effort, rubbing down etc. surely it deserves something a little better than linseed oil.

I wouldn't touch the stock with anything containing varnish unless you want a permanent varnished finish

By the way, I'm pretty sure that modern Beretta stocks are sold with a minimal finish and it's up to the new owner to give it a little TLC. I bought my 692 new and the stock looked pale and unloved so I gave it the attention it deserved, I top it up once a year with a few drops of CCL

 
Last edited by a moderator:
Don't forget to remove the stock and put whatever you are going to buy, on the wood that you don't normally see.

It will be dry and horrible do inside the forend too.

 
The lovely warm red colour that the best walnut stocks have comes from root of alkanet being blended in the oil . Have a look on the internet for a ‘ Trade Secrets Gunstock Kit ‘ . I use a gunsmith made oil with  alkanet in it . 

 
I think I warming towards CCL.

Remove wood, clean with some meths, light going over with 00 00 wire wool then a coat of CCL, very thin, then 2 more coats a week apart.

I hear you have to properly rub in the coats to get your hand/palm warm. 

My only concern is a knot in the wood which is slightly raised, need to smooth it off, carefully. You can see it in the c entre of the picture.

230411172331004-6.jpg

 
Nothing wrong with CCL or any of the other branded wallet lighteners, but it's worth remembering that they're all about 95% linseed and 5% drier/accelerator/hardener such as terebene etc. Also there are different types of linseed oil. Boiled isn't actually boiled, it's cut with additives to help it polymerize quicker because pure linseed can take months to harden. The best linseed of all is artist's grade which is pure but part polymerized and hardens in a few days.

Probably the best oil of all is pure genuine teak oil (not the rubbish stuff you treat garden furniture with) but I haven't been able to find it for donkey's years.

 
I think I warming towards CCL.

Remove wood, clean with some meths, light going over with 00 00 wire wool then a coat of CCL, very thin, then 2 more coats a week apart.

I hear you have to properly rub in the coats to get your hand/palm warm. 

My only concern is a knot in the wood which is slightly raised, need to smooth it off, carefully. You can see it in the c entre of the picture.

View attachment 9331
When I went with a shooting mate to Beretta for his custom stock Beretta offered three finishes, one basically as above, then gloss and finally London finish 

Custom stock came as semi matt standard , second option was gloss no extra on price, if you wanted a London finish there was an extra on top but I can't remember how much it was

 
I think I warming towards CCL.

Remove wood, clean with some meths, light going over with 00 00 wire wool then a coat of CCL, very thin, then 2 more coats a week apart.

I hear you have to properly rub in the coats to get your hand/palm warm.

My only concern is a knot in the wood which is slightly raised, need to smooth it off, carefully. You can see it in the c entre of the picture.

View attachment 9331
So how did you finish up in the end?

I have a similar project to undertake soon so any learnings would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
 

Latest posts

Back
Top