Shotgun Balance

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AW13

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 29, 2013
Messages
915
Location
East Sussex
Quick question:

My MK38 balances at the front of the action where it breaks open. I am finding that I have to positively 'push' the gun on crossers.

I would like to make the gun swing easier with a perceived more fluid action.  If I add 2 or 3 oz's into the stock bolt hole will that achieve what I am looking for or am I wasting my time?

Appreciate any thoughts and experiences.

Regards

AW13

 
I have 4oz in one of mine in the stock - It is in a bored hole above the stock bolt with an o ring to take up any 'shock'. Yes it makes a lot of difference as i have an identical gun without.

Just try it and find out what works for you.

 
Yes & try it. Cut the lead part of 28g cartridge off, wras it in parcel tape. This creates a weight(s).

Bug a sock in the stock bolt to keep the weight at the end (to maximize its effect) and give it a go.

An alternative quick check (if the gun is multi choke) is to remove a choke or two and see how it swings. Obviously don't shoot it without the chokes in. This will however quickly tell you if a small change in balance point is what you are after,

A neutral balance is at the hinge pin (as yours is) and is recommended fro most sporting clays. There is always a compromise on a round of 100.

 
AW13 said:
Quick question:

My MK38 balances at the front of the action where it breaks open. I am finding that I have to positively 'push' the gun on crossers.

I would like to make the gun swing easier with a perceived more fluid action.  If I add 2 or 3 oz's into the stock bolt hole will that achieve what I am looking for or am I wasting my time?

Appreciate any thoughts and experiences.

Regards

AW13
Click to expand...
That’s about right. Generally speaking, a slightly barrel heavy gun is preferable to one stock heavy. To an extent, it’s a win/lose situation. What you gain in gun speed you lose in control

Try weighting the stock and see how it feels. Don’t forget you’re adding to the guns overall weight and comfort though.

 
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Personally I feel barrel weight is almost all of what makes a gun feel right. So weights in the stock don’t do that much. They may make it feel better to mount, but moving the barrel is all about mass. I totally agree with removing the chokes to see how it feels. Obviously some light chokes if you want to actually shoot it. I’ve made a few guns VERY different animals by using light chokes.  

 
Interesting about choke weight, mine is the Teague Sporter which came with extended steel chokes. It came with a couple of flush fit Std Browning chokes as well.

I'll test the feel without chokes and then fit the flush chokes. Not sure I want to do a round with them though as I think they are cylinder and full! 

 
I may be wrong as relatively new to shooting (6 years) but my own observation about adding weight to stock (or barrel I guess) to make the feel of the gun, to the user, to appear better balanced, you are basically adding weight to counter a poorly balanced gun with weight at either end of the gun. My personal experience of well made guns that appear perfectly balanced with no additional weights handle much better as the weight is between the hands when mounted, could be cobblers though.

 
AW13 said:
Interesting about choke weight, mine is the Teague Sporter which came with extended steel chokes. It came with a couple of flush fit Std Browning chokes as well.

I'll test the feel without chokes and then fit the flush chokes. Not sure I want to do a round with them though as I think they are cylinder and full! 
Click to expand...
If the flush ones make the right difference, buying more chokes is the easy bit. I shoot Beretta’s, but on my go to gun, the difference between two extended chokes and two flush ones was very noticeable. Shame about having bought a half set of black extended ones, to complement the OEM set of extended ones, as well as the later sets of extended chokes that came with another Beretta 😂

 
I took out the extended Teague chokes and put in the Browning flush chokes and although there is a very slight difference in feel it is pretty small.

I didn't have time to add weight to the stock so that will be my next review.

The provided flush chokes are skeet and full so still not sure I want to try a round of sporting with that wide choke differential, I might try a stand or two to see how it feels though.

Hopefully I can find time tomorrow to add a few oz's into the stock to see what impact that brings

 
AW13 said:
I took out the extended Teague chokes and put in the Browning flush chokes and although there is a very slight difference in feel it is pretty small.

I didn't have time to add weight to the stock so that will be my next review.

The provided flush chokes are skeet and full so still not sure I want to try a round of sporting with that wide choke differential, I might try a stand or two to see how it feels though.

Hopefully I can find time tomorrow to add a few oz's into the stock to see what impact that brings
Click to expand...
Titanium flush are the lightest option. Take one of the flush steel out and see how that feels.. 

 
Of your shooting sporting then a slightly stock heavy gun is a necessity. I rebalance 5/6 guns daily. There’s a video on you tube. 
 

depending on barrel length it will take 2/3 1oz shells but as was said previously pack the stock bolt hole out so they sit right near the back. 
 

all of the top sporting shooters will have a rebalanced gun

 
Surprising revelation, my standard mount is with my left hand 1/2 way along the forend, this I found puts the point of balance further back from the hinge pin.

A strip of masking tape and a pencil kindly wielded by my wife put the halfway point between my hands at 1 1/4 inches back from the pin.  3 oz of fishing weights now in the back of the stock bolt hole and it feels so much more neutral as opposed to front heavy. It also balances on the new marker.

Hopefully I can pop out for a shoot later this week to test the new balance point.

It feels very different and I think it may well swing easier but a practice shoot will determine whether the above make any noticeable difference.

Thanks for all the advice.

 
AW13 said:
Surprising revelation, my standard mount is with my left hand 1/2 way along the forend, this I found puts the point of balance further back from the hinge pin.

A strip of masking tape and a pencil kindly wielded by my wife put the halfway point between my hands at 1 1/4 inches back from the pin.  3 oz of fishing weights now in the back of the stock bolt hole and it feels so much more neutral as opposed to front heavy. It also balances on the new marker.

Hopefully I can pop out for a shoot later this week to test the new balance point.

It feels very different and I think it may well swing easier but a practice shoot will determine whether the above make any noticeable difference.

Thanks for all the advice.
Click to expand...
Holding the forend too far back can induce a whole different problem.. Unless you are short and there is no choice. That front hand position makes a big difference to how the gun moves and feels. There is more precision in holding the forend further forward (as long as your are not making the arm straight to do it, which creates a physical movement issue). Basically, try holding forend further out if comfortable. You may be surprised. It will slow the gun, so maybe some gaps may need to look bigger. 

 
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Will Hewland said:
Holding the forend too far back can induce a whole different problem.. Unless you are short and there is no choice. That front hand position makes a big difference to how the gun moves and feels. There is more precision in holding the forend further forward (as long as your are not making the arm straight to do it, which creates a physical movement issue). Basically, try holding forend further out if comfortable. You may be surprised. It will slow the gun, so maybe some gaps may need to look bigger. 
Click to expand...
Actually it doesn’t. I understand the logic but if u rotate from the core how fast I turn is how fast the gun turns. 
 

Charles Bardou from France one the worlds elite holds the action. 
 

consistency is key: 

 
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k80ben said:
Actually it doesn’t. I understand the logic but if u rotate from the core how fast I turn is how fast the gun turns. 
 

Charles Bardou from France one the worlds elite holds the action. 
 

consistency is key: 
Click to expand...
Agreed if you’re very static in the arm, but most make fine adjustments with the leading hand. I once watched a bloke (at a local straw baler) blank a stand of two quartering targets, by going in front (too much gun movement). He was holding right back at the action. I persuaded him to go back in the cage and slide his hand forward. I didn’t say another word. He hit 8/10.

AW13 did say his gun felt hard to move, so I concede it won’t feel easier with a hand further forward, probably harder, but it does offer fine control. I think it was GD who says he pushes his hand max forward on slow rabbits.

 
Will Hewland said:
Agreed if you’re very static in the arm, but most make fine adjustments with the leading hand. I once watched a bloke (at a local straw baler) blank a stand of two quartering targets, by going in front (too much gun movement). He was holding right back at the action. I persuaded him to go back in the cage and slide his hand forward. I didn’t say another word. He hit 8/10.

AW13 did say his gun felt hard to move, so I concede it won’t feel easier with a hand further forward, probably harder, but it does offer fine control. I think it was GD who says he pushes his hand max forward on slow rabbits.
Click to expand...
Don’t believe all u hear about shooters. No one moves their hands 

and static in the arms is vital

better to teach long term fixes than quick fixes 

 
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I shoot relatively short stocks and my hand is just in front of the iron.  Me and the gun are more compact that way and I turn faster.  I also shoot light barrels.  I definitely prefer light, fast guns.  Heavy guns and heavy barrels are a drudge for me.  JMO of course but pigeon guns spoiled me for anything else.

k80ben said:
Actually it doesn’t. I understand the logic but if u rotate from the core how fast I turn is how fast the gun turns. 
Click to expand...
Absolutely

 
All this begs the question: Is the pin the right place to test balance or should it be between the hands? I ask because my CG is slightly front heavy when checked at the pin but seems evenly balanced when mounted. My front hand position is pretty average slightly more than half way along the forend.

 
Westward said:
All this begs the question: Is the pin the right place to test balance or should it be between the hands? I ask because my CG is slightly front heavy when checked at the pin but seems evenly balanced when mounted. My front hand position is pretty average slightly more than half way along the forend.
Click to expand...
Between hands 

 
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