692/SV10 ejectors

Anyone know how to remove the above - I want to take them off to give them a proper clean but can't see how.

There is a vid on youtube showing how to remove them from 680 series but these 692/SV10 have the adjusters on them and they seem to be slightly different.

I also seem to have an intermittent issue with the bottom barrel not firing which looks like an inertia block issue. Is it relatively easy to remove the stock and clean out the action or am I best taking back to the dealer?

Thanks all.

http://www.shotgunworld.com/bbs/viewtopic.php?f=57&t=261412





The stock is easy to remove.  Get the long allen key in there, may need some additional leverage on there (screwdriver through the whole on the end of the bolt removal tool).  Might be a bit of crap in the firing pin area.  You can remove the drift pins, then the pins and springs will come out.

Thanks Skeet...I'll have a shufty.

With a bit of luck I'll have no bits left over when I put it back together......

So that “reference” screw position determines whether they eject or just extract? What is the setting out of the factory?

Still waiting for my 692

P1Fanatic said:

Still waiting for my 692

Click to expand...

Your kidding !! :ireful:

Mine came to set to eject, if that helps.

I think...if the top of the slotted screw is pointing towards the barrels (as Skeets photo) they are set to eject - conversely if the top of the screw is pointed away from the barrels then they extract.

My 692 has just gone back to GMK actually, nothing to do with the ejectors though.....a couple of intermittent niggles that may (hopefully) just be down to new model syndrome....

Niggle 1 is the top lever sometimes sticks over to the right and doesn't centre when I close the gun. I suspect this is something to do with the composite rubber coating catching (very slightly) on the woodwork as when I apply a tiny dab of grease it works fine. Seems to be more apparent in warm weather which makes sense if the wood is swelling a little.

Niggle 2 only occurs if I set the top barrel to fire first in that occasionally it doesn't reset for the bottom barrel. Always works fine the other way around though....

Niggle 1 appeared first and had niggle 2 not arrived I would have lived with it as I'm sure it would have worn itself in over time, but once niggle 2 came along I decided to send it back in case the two issues were connected.

Really sorry to hear you've still not got yours P1, you've got the patience of a saint!

Iggy said:

I think...if the top of the slotted screw is pointing towards the barrels (as Skeets photo) they are set to eject - conversely if the top of the screw is pointed away from the barrels then they extract.

My 692 has just gone back to GMK actually, nothing to do with the ejectors though.....a couple of intermittent niggles that may (hopefully) just be down to new model syndrome....

Niggle 1 is the top lever sometimes sticks over to the right and doesn't centre when I close the gun. I suspect this is something to do with the composite rubber coating catching (very slightly) on the woodwork as when I apply a tiny dab of grease it works fine. Seems to be more apparent in warm weather which makes sense if the wood is swelling a little.

Niggle 2 only occurs if I set the top barrel to fire first in that occasionally it doesn't reset for the bottom barrel. Always works fine the other way around though....

Niggle 1 appeared first and had niggle 2 not arrived I would have lived with it as I'm sure it would have worn itself in over time, but once niggle 2 came along I decided to send it back in case the two issues were connected.

Really sorry to hear you've still not got yours P1, you've got the patience of a saint!

Click to expand...

Sorry to hear about that. Not what you want with a new gun but seems to be the norm these days.

As for me - unfortunately my required setup (30” sporter, L/H, adjustable stock) seems to be the very last version to come off the Beretta production lines. I have yet to see one for sale on GunTrader and GunStar so it’s not just my particular order. Latest I have been told is early next week but my experience tells me that Beretta do not actually know what they are going to ship to GMK so it’s a bit of a lottery. Fingers crossed though. At this rate I might end up wrapping it up as a Christmas present

Hi all, I decided to contact GMK about this and they kindly provided the following instructions so thought I'd pass them on.

I now do this every time I clean the gun, it seems fiddly but trust me it's very easy and when you've done it once it's a piece of cake.

Beretta SV10/692 EJECTOR REMOVAL

1- Fully depress ejector against something suitable such as a block of wood (this allows removal of ejector selector/stop)

2- Small dogleg tool required (small Allen key)

3- Use tool to push ejector selector/stop from the breech end towards the muzzle end. This is accessed from underneath front barrel shoulder

4- With the ejectors still under pressure and when the ejector selector/stop has moved upwards slightly, hold it with your finger tips and twist/wriggle it to remove

5- Be aware the ejector will be under tension from ejector spring and plunger so release pressure gently.

6- Carefully remove ejector, plunger and spring.

Beretta SV10/692 EJECTOR ASSEMBLY

1- Insert ejector spring, plunger then ejector

2- Fully depress ejector

3- Insert ejector selector/stop, you will have to slightly twist this to insert correctly

Please note that the ejectors and ejector selector/stop are 'handed' so when you've taken them off make sure you know which side you took them from.

Iggy.

[SIZE=medium]So your gun is back from GMK then?[/SIZE]

[SIZE=medium]Have so far been able to fire either barrel without issue but predominantly use bottom barrel first. But then I have only fired 300 shells through mine so far.[/SIZE]

[SIZE=medium]A guy over on Shooting Times just had to send his back as well. Action wouldn’t align properly with the barrels and then when trying again at home something in the action went ping. He has only fired 500.[/SIZE]

[SIZE=medium]Only niggle with mine so far as I noticed that the brass on a fired cartridge in the bottom barrel would have a little scratch on it running from 6 to 12 oclock and about 3mm in length. Nothing in the action that I can see would cause that so can only imagine that it’s the firing pin protruding too much. Will keep an eye on that.[/SIZE]

[SIZE=medium]As for your ejector instructions. Not sure I want to do that every weekend but maybe once a month as they do collect some crud and need a light oiling. I just changed mine from eject to extract so am hoping that reduces the amount of crud that gets inside as less metal and gap exposed. [/SIZE]

Yes, the gun was fixed and back to me within about 10 working days which I thought was pretty good. I believe the inertia block(s) were replaced and top lever adjusted and so far (touch wood) it's not missed a beat since.

Like you I don't like to see a build up of crud beneath the ejectors, hence why I remove them after each shoot but as fiddly as it seems it really does only add about 5 minutes to the clean time.

Hope you're enjoying your 692.

[SIZE=medium]Yeah that’s a pretty good turnaround time to be fair. Hope it’s all sorted for you.[/SIZE]

[SIZE=medium]Yes I am loving mine. Getting equal and in some areas better scores than I did with the 682 and just finding the new gun easier to swing. Helps that this is a proper left hand gun. Had to play around with the adjustable comb a little but think I have it how I want it now.[/SIZE]

[SIZE=11pt]I have a lesson booked with Ed Solomons 2 weeks today which I had been holding off on organising until I got the 692. So hoping he can help me with some of my problem sporting targets that are hurting my scores.[/SIZE]

I tried using the extractor setting last weekend out of curiosity. Waste of time tbh. Doesn't extract them enough so you have to dig your nails under the brass. Back to ejector setting for me.

I use the extract mode on my new 692 and have no problem with it although it would be difficult wearing gloves maybe.

My gun also had to be returned to GMK because the top lever was not returning to center, they removed a thou or two of wood where the lever passes over and that fixed it.

Other than that a fantastic gun thats beautifully balanced, very point able and gives impressive breaks with the standard optima HP chokes. Use Mullers in 686Evo but not necessary in 692 as extended forcing cones in conjunction with HPs seem to be pretty awesome.

When you guys say the top lever doesn't centre you mean it doesn't return all the way to its default position i.e. offset to the right following the angle of the thumb mould?

My fore end is tight to get off. Also the lever does rub the rear of the knuckle it locks onto under the bottom barrel. Have started putting clenzoil hinge jelly on the rear of the knuckle (as well as on the hinges and the lugs just underneath the ejectors.

P1 Fanatic: Yes your comment on the top lever is spot on, it now returns to the default position which is offset to the right.

For end on mine was horrendously tight, I mentioned this to GMK when the gun was in for the top lever and they said they were reluctant to ease it as it may lead to it becoming loose when the gun was run in so to speak. They advised grease on the knuckle and I have to say after putting approaching 1000 shells through the gun it is getting easier although still tight.

Yeah mine was super tight to start with – to the point I thought it was stuck or the release lever wasn’t working. Have only fired 500 shells through mine but has definitely loosened up a bit (adding grease will also have helped). Having never owned another shotgun from new I have nothing to compare it to. Am enjoying shooting it though.

Have you noticed the same as iggy, myself and a few others that the barrels seem to get far dirtier than other guns using the same cartridges? Mine gets filthy even after just 75-100 sheels and am using a bronze brush after every use now as only way to remove it. With my old 682 I just used a jag & patch (after spraying cleaner into the barrels) and that was enough to remove 95% of crud and then I’d get the bronze brush out every couple of months. We came to the conclusion it was something to do with the longer forcing cones

And I thought it was just me ! Yes my 692 bores are filthy after every outing and I'm using the same shells ( Evo ) as in my other beretta which are easily cleaned with a pull through. The problem is compounded because the bronze brush is a loose fit in the bores of the 692 due to the long forcing cones. It would be interesting to know if DT11 owners have the same issue as I understand the forcing cones are even longer on those guns.

I use fibre evo’s but iggy has similar issue with plastics. My old bronze brush is loose in the 692 bores but a new one I got as part of a Bisley budget cleaning rod kit is tight and works a lot better. Wonder how long it will stay that way if I am using for every clean. I was also wondering if DT11 owners had similar issues