Miroku stock care

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GeordieTrapper

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Nov 20, 2017
Messages
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What advice would members give on care of a Grade 5 Miroku stock? I have been told everything from raw linseed oil to quality furniture wax. Is it a sealed or permeable factory finish?

 
I use a  tiny drop of CCL Stock Conditioning oil rubbed in with the palm of my hand on both Of Gd 5 Mirokus and my K80 . I don’t over oil , I don’t want an “English “ shiny mirror finish  The same bottle has been in use for 10  years minimum  .  It’s not a “ sealed stock “ . 
 

https://www.greenfieldguns.com/product/ccl-gunstock-conditioning-oil-50ml-2/

ps don’t overdo it , the last thing you want is sticky gunge building up between wood and steel . A drop once  in a while is all that is needed . 

 
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Hi. No personal experience with a Miroku stock, but I've given some TLC to other stocks of fellow shooters, mostly Brownings. If you want to completely re-do the finish, I'd recommend sanding and building up the finish of your choice by adding thin layers. One after the other is dry, polishing in between to rid any imperfections. I think boiled linseed oil would best be used as opposed to raw linseed oil, but linseed oil (same for Tung oil) takes many many layers if you want a really nice finish. For 'maintenance' I'd (clean thoroughly and then) use the same product that was on there and apply a thin coat, polish down with microfilm, 000 steel wool or just a really vigorous rub with cotton.  

Personally I like a glossy looking finish with a tad less work, and Tru-Oil ticks those boxes. Wouldn't use it on an existing finish (that wasn't tru-oil to begin with), but at least if you do it yourself you always know what's on there. 

 
Artists grade part polymerized linseed oil works well but any of the 'secret recipe' gun stock oils will be just as good. Always use tiny amounts as Martin says above.

Personally I'd never use wax on an oiled stock although it seems a popular thing in America. Keep in mind that the wax would have to be removed before adding more oil to the wood and since wax doesn't do anything oil doesn't already do it seems to me an exercise in futility.

 
Thanks for your help and advice, after rubbing small quantities of oil, eg CCL, on stock how long before it can go back in slip

 
after care is on the CCL leaflet, it says leave at least a week before use, so that's probably your answer

 
I use a spray called wood silk, contains no silicones but has bees wax. Find it less hassle than oil and leaves a nice finish.

Spray on a mico fibre and give the stock a wipe over

 
Thanks for your help and advice, after rubbing small quantities of oil, eg CCL, on stock how long before it can go back in slip
If you use just a tiny drop of oil at a time ,and rub it in with the palm of your hand ( the fleshy bit under your thumb is best ) until it has all gone and your skin is hot from friction , pop  it in the gun safe over night and you’ll be fine to use it the next day . 

What are you wanting to achieve with your stock   ? Maintenance or a deeper shine or darker colour ?   A lot of stock care comes down to personal preference . 
 

 
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I use a spray called wood silk, contains no silicones but has bees wax. Find it less hassle than oil and leaves a nice finish.

Spray on a mico fibre and give the stock a wipe over
Does the wax component leave a residue, or does it soak into the wood entirely? My pet peeve with wax-related products is that they can still get sticky after application, especially in tropical temperatures. 

 
Does the wax component leave a residue, or does it soak into the wood entirely? My pet peeve with wax-related products is that they can still get sticky after application, especially in tropical temperatures. 
Doesn't leave a residue on my Browning/Gureini stocks, as I said spray onto a micofiber cloth rub over wood and leave for a few minutes, then go over with a clean cloth.

They never feel sticky to me even in this heatwave we are having here at the moment, I suppose if your using the hard bees wax polish that could happen

 
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