Yildiz Pro Black Sporter

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It might a couple of hours but I'm sure a decent gunsmith will ensure all those bits that needed "hand finishing" were checked and sorted at the same time. If you sent it back its one thing, then another etc.

 
This thread reminded me that my and my wife's brand new Perazzi MX2000 trap guns back in the early noughties got very difficult to open when hot. I spoke to RUAG and they arranged a local gunsmith, Ladbroke & Langton, to ease the H bolts FOC for me. 

 
Are the internals surface hardened? If so then I’d be a bit wary about an H bolt that has its surface filed down. If that exposes non-hardened metal, wear will set in a lot quicker, more so if rubbing against hardened parts.  

 
try red brake grease, meant for car brakes it does work good on actions , I use it on my miroku , obviously itsdesigned for use on really hot car brake parts so easily works on a hot action,I use it on the knuckle side faces and bolt,ejectors get light oil .

 
A gunsmith friend has always said that most of the work he does on newish guns could have been negated by a couple of hours finishing by hand in whichever factory,and yes his bench sees its fair share of Perazzi amongst everything else! So the OP gun no doubt needs a little TLC from a proper gunsmith rather than the production operative that assembled it.

 
Are the internals surface hardened? If so then I’d be a bit wary about an H bolt that has its surface filed down. If that exposes non-hardened metal, wear will set in a lot quicker, more so if rubbing against hardened parts.  
The H bolt in a Perazzi is made of a steel that is softer than the hardened steel of the lugs on the monoblock. The idea is that the H bolt wears and is cheap and easily replaced. So actually the H bolt should be exactly as you say it should not be.

I have no idea how the metal used in a cheap Turkish knock off relate to each other... or if they even thought about that?

 
I reckon the Tolerances on the H bolt are pretty tight from the factory. Gun gets shot and the barrel gets pretty hot causing expansion. That heat, albeit it less pronounced will also be causing some expansion in the action as well. So you will then have two interlocking wedge shaped parts of the gun expanding and therefore binding together. When gun cools down then the metal contracts and the top lever works normally again. We are probably talking about a couple of thousandths that needs to be filed off the H block. It’s an easy job for a gunsmith but requires the action to be disassembled so should take ac couple of hours max. I recently had the same problem that you have but with a Miroku. Sent back to Browning via the dealer and was back within a week. Did you buy the gun used or new?
Gun is new, your suggestion is certainly a sensible one, I know a very skilled gunsmith, in whom I have the utmost confidence, and rather than returning the gun under warranty, I may ask him to look at it.

try red brake grease, meant for car brakes it does work good on actions , I use it on my miroku , obviously itsdesigned for use on really hot car brake parts so easily works on a hot action,I use it on the knuckle side faces and bolt,ejectors get light oil .
Thankyou for that, could be the easiest and most straightforward solution, although the gun was sparingly lubricated before shooting it.

 
The H bolt in a Perazzi is made of a steel that is softer than the hardened steel of the lugs on the monoblock. The idea is that the H bolt wears and is cheap and easily replaced. So actually the H bolt should be exactly as you say it should not be.

I have no idea how the metal used in a cheap Turkish knock off relate to each other... or if they even thought about that?
Your last sentence sums up my feelings pretty accurately-I agree with the analogy of cheap Turkish knock off!!! 😉 i was being a little optimistic in thinking that a gun costing less than £1500 would have the pedigree or provenance of one costing upwards of £9-£10k, subconsciously I knew  it wasn’t a Perazzi, so it’s shortcomings weren’t too much of a surprise!! 

 
The H bolt in a Perazzi is made of a steel that is softer than the hardened steel of the lugs on the monoblock. The idea is that the H bolt wears and is cheap and easily replaced. So actually the H bolt should be exactly as you say it should not be.

I have no idea how the metal used in a cheap Turkish knock off relate to each other... or if they even thought about that?
Actually, there's nothing cheap about the way they are made, but they are cheaper copies.

The fit and finish is excellent and the materials used are of high quality.

If you want to buy a cheap gun, they do sell them, but they make good ones too.

^^ I wish you'd remove the oversize speed check 😉
Eh?

 
Actually, there's nothing cheap about the way they are made, but they are cheaper copies.

The fit and finish is excellent and the materials used are of high quality.

If you want to buy a cheap gun, they do sell them, but they make good ones too.

Eh?
Never seen one to be fair BUT they are cheap and they are a knock off... Fk knows what is going to happen when the Chinese start to knock out copies of all Marques ... if they aren't already doing so.

 
Its wrong to say they are a "knock off". Cheaper sounds about right. I suspect cheaper maybe good enough but each to their own.

Its a "Boss" action which is used (copied) by numerous other high-end gun manufacturers including Perazzi, Zoli etc.

 
Its wrong to say they are a "knock off". Cheaper sounds about right. I suspect cheaper maybe good enough but each to their own.

Its a "Boss" action which is used (copied) by numerous other high-end gun manufacturers including Perazzi, Zoli etc.
There are indeed quite a few gunmakers using that action style. 

 
Never seen one to be fair BUT they are cheap and they are a knock off... Fk knows what is going to happen when the Chinese start to knock out copies of all Marques ... if they aren't already doing so.
Well the basic one is Beretta SP money, £1500, then a bit more for adjustable, a bit more for grade 4 wood and, a bit more for grade 5 which is special order, mine was £1900.

So they aren't 'budget', but certainly are value for money.

Won A class with mine yesterday 😁

 
Didn't Beretta have a similar problem with the gun not opening with one of their models, their's was something to do with the lever if I recall
Last year at the local shooting ground a bit of a crowd had gathered around a lad with a newish Beretta 686 which had jammed. As both barrels had just been fired the gun was deemed safe and various shooters were attempting to open it. I suggested that it was put in the gun rack at the stand and left for 10 minutes or so. After doing this, the gun opened easily. I got the lad to bring it back to the car park where I had my gun First Aid kit in my car. I took off the barrels applied some grease to the knuckles and the bites, re-assembled it and off he went. He came to me later to say the gun had been fine for the rest of the shoot. I have also seen Browning/Miroku's with a similar problem, due to a simple lack of lubrication of the essential bits.  I use the Lucas red tacky grease off Ebay, a tub of that at around £7 will last a lifetime. It is designed for boat engine and prop lubrication, it stays where it is put. I use it on all but my semi auto guns.

 
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Last year at the local shooting ground a bit of a crowd had gathered around a lad with a newish Beretta 686 which had jammed. As both barrels had just been fired the gun was deemed safe and various shooters were attempting to open it. I suggested that it was put in the gun rack at the stand and left for 10 minutes or so. After doing this, the gun opened easily. I got the lad to bring it back to the car park where I had my gun First Aid kit in my car. I took off the barrels applied some grease to the knuckles and the bites, re-assembled it and off he went. He came to me later to say the gun had been fine for the rest of the shoot. I have also seen Browning/Miroku's with a similar problem, due to a simple lack of lubrication of the essential bits.  I use the Lucas red tacky grease off Ebay, a tub of that at around £7 will last a lifetime. It is designed for boat engine and prop lubrication, it stays where it is put. I use it on all but my semi auto guns.
The wrong type of grease can have similar results also

 
Did you manage to get it sorted after? Quite fancy trying one, especially with the later stock design. 

 
Hi Jimbob, my trusted method of resolving issues with any new (or second hand) shotgun I buy is to part exchange it for something else!! To me, and this is a personal idiosyncratic characteristic of my personality:-:- if any gun I buy new, does not perform flawlessly without any issues, (bearing in mind these are examples of quality engineering, and have passed through many stages of design, construction, quality control etc), i immediately lose confidence in it, if I’ve paid upwards of £1500 for a gun, whether Italian, Turkish, Japanese, my expectation is that it should work, so, in answer to your question, apart from ensuring the relevant surfaces were lubricated, I did not attempt to get the annoying fault rectified, i part exchanged it, with the same dealer, openly advising him why I didn’t like it, for a  Beretta 694, I also lost a shed load of wonga!!! Hey Ho!! ( The Beretta works just fine by the way, but does cost twice as much as the Yildiz)

 
It is without doubt, a gun, like others that will lose money, Zoli is another example yet a good quality gun, in fact I have my eye on one in the rfd at the moment for £200 just as a hide gun..................... I digress. It is not uncommon to have a tight action on a number of guns and as stated earlier, even Perazzi so the Yildiz is in good company. I stated in another article about the testing I did with a Pro Black, lovely gun with seriously good handling qualities and one that was a pleasure to use, my humble opinion, they are worth having someone do the work to make it viable for you. I am pretty certain when my dear wife decides to get a new gun, it will be the Yildiz Pro Black.
 

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