Miroku Trap Gun

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rickh

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Have Miroku changed the barrel specification for the Mk38 trap gun? For the last few years I've been using a Grade 1 32" for dtl, it has 1600gram barrels as stated on the proof certificate and balances nicely in front of the hinge pin and handles really well. I'm now trying to upgrade to a Grade 5 model and have so far looked at about 8 different ones but every one of them has lightweight ( for a 32") barrels in the range 1519 to 1540 grams and every one is stock heavy balancing behind the pin and (in my opinion ) not handling like a trap gun at all. I'm talking here about the standard stock model not the adjustable one which would be even more stock heavy! Has anyone bought one recently that has a decent barrel weight?

The quality of wood on a lot of the guns I've looked at has been pretty crap as well compared to grade 5's of a few years ago.  Ain't what they used to be!

 
rickh said:
Have Miroku changed the barrel specification for the Mk38 trap gun? For the last few years I've been using a Grade 1 32" for dtl, it has 1600gram barrels as stated on the proof certificate and balances nicely in front of the hinge pin and handles really well. I'm now trying to upgrade to a Grade 5 model and have so far looked at about 8 different ones but every one of them has lightweight ( for a 32") barrels in the range 1519 to 1540 grams and every one is stock heavy balancing behind the pin and (in my opinion ) not handling like a trap gun at all. I'm talking here about the standard stock model not the adjustable one which would be even more stock heavy! Has anyone bought one recently that has a decent barrel weight?

The quality of wood on a lot of the guns I've looked at has been pretty crap as well compared to grade 5's of a few years ago.  Ain't what they used to be!
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Higher grade walnut tends to be denser so the stock being the majority of the wood on the gun could affect the balance.

 
I've had three grade 5 and one grade 1 32" barrelled trap guns over the years, dated between 1998 and 2009, the latter is my current one, the barrels have all weighed around the 1600gm mark, with full length side ribs. I like the weight forward as it makes for me a steadier shooting gun.

I've picked up newer 32" guns and noticed they feel more stock heavy. Also the side ribs weren't full length either, starting just before the front of the forend. Two dyed in the wool Miroku owners I know got rid of theirs and sought out older models to get the Miroku 'feel' again.

Probably right about the wood too, the grade 5 gun on display on the Browning/Miroku stand at the shooting show last year was pretty poor too.

 
rickh said:
The quality of wood on a lot of the guns I've looked at has been pretty crap as well compared to grade 5's of a few years ago.  Ain't what they used to be!
Click to expand...
I think that applies right across the board for  'off the peg'  guns, if you search the Country,  you may just drop on one with decent wood. Other than that go with a gun that you can visit the factory and choose your own wood. Another alternative, and in the gun that you are looking at there should be a few around, buy an older model.

 
Didn't know about the shorter rib, that may well explain a lot of the weight loss. Looks like I'll have to look for an older s/h one. Better hang on to my Gd1 as well.

I had considered the new Browning but the mechanical trigger has put me off - I associate them with occasional double discharges. A friend of mine had a Browning in the 80's with a mechanical trigger, not a Belgium made gun but still an expensive one, that frequently fired both barrels.So if it hasn't got an inertia block I tend to avoid them (probably very narrow minded of me).  

 
AFAIK there are no current guns that double as a matter of course due to design flaw.  Inertia blocks do not prevent that either.  If a gun doubles ever it needs to be looked at by a pro and FIXED, not tolerated.  Could be as simple as cleaning/lube or any of a multitude of things.

And if I had the time I could relate a couple really bizarre ones so it can be anything!

 
Update. After being unable to find a Gd5 Miroku that handles how I want it to I've bought a Browning B725 Protrap. Lovely looking gun, good weight and handles perfectly straight out of the box without the need for the counter weights. But guess what, after just 300 cartridges it is now, on a regular basis, not allowing the second barrel to be fired. Having been on several shooting forum's especially usa ones this appears to be a common issue with the 725 with a number of people having the same problem - apparently something to do with a sticking safety sear. Knew I should have followed my instinct and stayed away from mechanical triggers.

This topic is probably in the wrong area and should be under equipment, guns.   

 
rickh said:
Update. After being unable to find a Gd5 Miroku that handles how I want it to I've bought a Browning B725 Protrap. Lovely looking gun, good weight and handles perfectly straight out of the box without the need for the counter weights. But guess what, after just 300 cartridges it is now, on a regular basis, not allowing the second barrel to be fired. Having been on several shooting forum's especially usa ones this appears to be a common issue with the 725 with a number of people having the same problem - apparently something to do with a sticking safety sear. Knew I should have followed my instinct and stayed away from mechanical triggers.

This topic is probably in the wrong area and should be under equipment, guns.   
Click to expand...
I always thought that mechanical trigger sets were the bees knees. Am I barking up the wrong tree?.

 
rickh said:
Update. After being unable to find a Gd5 Miroku that handles how I want it to I've bought a Browning B725 Protrap. Lovely looking gun, good weight and handles perfectly straight out of the box without the need for the counter weights. But guess what, after just 300 cartridges it is now, on a regular basis, not allowing the second barrel to be fired. Having been on several shooting forum's especially usa ones this appears to be a common issue with the 725 with a number of people having the same problem - apparently something to do with a sticking safety sear. Knew I should have followed my instinct and stayed away from mechanical triggers.

This topic is probably in the wrong area and should be under equipment, guns.   




 
Click to expand...
Just take the stock off and spray the inside of the action with wd40 and wipe off.............just try it and post back you have nothing to lose.

 
balltrap said:
Just take the stock off and spray the inside of the action with wd40 and wipe off.............just try it and post back you have nothing to lose.
Click to expand...
No. DO NOT LISTEN TO THIS PLONKER!!! 

Take it back, decent gun smith will fix.

 
balltrap said:
Just take the stock off and spray the inside of the action with wd40 and wipe off.............just try it and post back you have nothing to lose.
Click to expand...
I have had 2 guns that had the same problem it was down to the oil that was to thick ( bit like backside ) the fine tolerances of the action need a fine oil if the oil is to thick it will cause the parts not to move as they should, I am not saying this is your problem but its a quick check. If you take it to a gunsmith he will charge you anyway, so nothing lost if you try it is there !

 
I have to step in and mediate between the Tamworth Pig and the Glaswegian Udder Puller.

Browning 725 do have a history of fail to fire second barrel. There have been a number of updates and modifications which Browning do tend to be coy about.

ANY new gun that suffers ANY malfunction whilst under guarantee , should be returned to an accredited dealer for rectification either by their franchised gunsmith or returned to the factory, Failure to do so may invalidate any guarantee.

WD40 is not a lubricant, it is a water dispersant containing ingrediants that may be harmful to metals and especially woodwork.

 
"My ribs are coming loose on my gun, it's only 6 months old!!!"

"Do you use WD40 to clean your gun?"

"Yes, how did you know..."

 
Off topic a bit.. 

Sold an original MK38 sporter about 10 years ago.  Regretted it very shortly after. It was well balanced choked 1/4 and 3/4 and I shot it well as the early ones had a trap stock on.  I have looked for ages to replace it with another MK38 sporter but all the the later MK38s although now multichoked  have the browning low stock on and don't feel as nice handling.

Today driving passed a shop I nipped in for a quick look round like you do and found one from the same year.. picked it up. Like meeting an old friend  and yes, the wallet is now a  bit lighter.  Just need to go back with licence. 

I wonder sometimes why mess with a winning formula.

 
Last edited by a moderator:
Salopian said:
WD40 is not a lubricant, it is a water dispersant containing ingrediants that may be harmful to metals and especially woodwork.
Click to expand...
WD40 is most certainly not a lube and even used to state that on the can - may still.  However I've used the stuff for +/-50-60 years and have never seen it do harm to anything, but then my stocks are sealed and waxed and spraying WD40 on them serves no purpose.

JMO   YMMV of course

 
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