Perazzi firing pins

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Paul120

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 10, 2013
Messages
1,480
Location
Manchester
On Saturday I had a misfire so when I got home I decided to have a look at the state of the firing pins. The bottom one looked a bit shorter than the one in the spares kit and the back looked a bit bashed so I swapped it.

Anyway once fitted I noticed that the new pin protruded throughout the pin hole (too long). So I've swapped it back.

I didn't have a problem on Sunday so the cartridge was more than likely the issue.

I've trawled tinternet, but as usual can't find anything useful or informative on fitting new pins. Although I did find out that my trigger group has the bottom hammer without webbing!!

The gun was built in the 1980s and I doubt that the firing pins I have we're originally supplied with it. My questions are;

Is it usual for new pins to need additional fitting or should they just go straight in or have the dimensions of the pins changed over time?

Hopefully somebody on the forum can shed some light.

Thanks.

 
The top and bottom barrel firing pins are different lengths on my mx2000.... Pins should not need any extra fitting as far as I know

 
The Perazzi firing pins are made in two pieces and over time they separated. So this could be the problem you experienced above.

They are easy to change, this shouldn't take more than a couple of minutes to do.

Use this link for instructions;

http://www.swsupply.com/downloads/ChangingFiringPins.pdf

As your gun was made in the eighties and you know it doesn't have the webbed hammer, you can use either the old style or new style bottom firing pins in your gun.

When you have the firing pin out, lightly oil and clean out the hole with a cotton bud as corrosion or rubbish can collect in there and this may have caused the issue you experienced.

 
As was noted the pins are different lengths so pay attention to that.  I've never had a two part pin come apart.  The only thing that has changed thru time is the non-slotted pin to use with the web-less bottom hammer.

I've changed a number of pins as a matter of maintenance and have never come across one that needed "fitting".  The non-webbed hammer is a plus since you can toss in any new or old style bottom pin.  If it is a modded old style hammer you might check to see that it was properly polished where the web was removed and not cracking.  

 
Thanks for the replies.

The top barrel pin body is much shorter than the bottom pin. Pretty sure that I've got the right pin in the right hole.

When I put the new bottom pin alongside the old pin the body of them are exactly the same. It's just the striking part that is a bit longer.

perhaps the pin isn't a genuine part.

I'll try again and see if I'm doing something wrong and take some pictures.

 
Perazzi pins do protrude differently. The bottom one a bit more from memory, probably because it is at more of an angle and needs to put more forward energy into the primer.

Hint. If the pins are becoming eroded on the tips, they can be shortened / polished and will still work fine. It is because they are a touch too long that they hit the primer too hard and gases escape, eroding the pin. Mine are on third polish and have pretty much stopped pitting now. (This was a hint from a great gunsmith)

 
Perazzi pins do protrude differently. The bottom one a bit more from memory, probably because it is at more of an angle and needs to put more forward energy into the primer.

Hint. If the pins are becoming eroded on the tips, they can be shortened / polished and will still work fine. It is because they are a touch too long that they hit the primer too hard and gases escape, eroding the pin. Mine are on third polish and have pretty much stopped pitting now. (This was a hint from a great gunsmith)
Mine are on 3rd polishing as well.....thanks Gordon xx

 
I had mine stripped on the bench earlier this year for a good going through, inspected the firing pins and found the outer metal collar on one cracked all the way round, still all together and working fine, changed it out though obviously.

 
Paul, just use the Beretta man. No polishing of pins required no faffing about stripping stuff down.

Get beretta out of cabinet in the morning, shoot it, wipe it with an oily rag, put it back in cabinet and repeat process every week.

JOB DONE.

 
Beretta pins are the dogs bollox. In fact they must be made of something much tougher than canine testicles..

 
I have never ever had a Beretta pin changed or any gun related misfires.

Having said that some may say that I don't keep them long enough to wear them out, which may be true :)

 
Beretta pins are the dogs bollox. In fact they must be made of something much tougher than canine testicles..
The way I have had it explained to me by two gunsmiths is...Beretta have rebounding hammers, the hammer isn't 'holding' the pin tight against the primer at ignition like Perazzii, Krieghoff and Miroku do, it's the firm contact with the primer, for the fraction of a second as the powder burns at it's hottest that causes almost an ark welder type heat effect between the primer and the pin that causes the chipping and/or heat stress. beretta pins come out from the center at a shallow angle, strike the primer, the hammers rebound taking the pressure off the pin/primer contact instead of holding the pin tight against the primer. Krieghoff/Miroku actions are set up so as the top pin goes straight out and the bottom barrel pin comes out at a steep angle...I assume if Perazzi have a short pin and a long pin then they do the same. The pin at the long angle gets ,more damage because it's always striking on the angle rather than straight.

Makes lots of sence to me as to why every missfire i've seen on a Miroku/Krieghoff and very rare Perazzi have been bottom barrel, every shell that I've seen missfire (bar one) either fired in the top barrel or through my DT11 when they handed to me saying something along the lines og "see if that will go off in that beretta"

 
I don't think the rebounding hammers have anything to do with it.  In fact I'd bet some vital body parts that it doesn't.  Rebounding or not, the pin is maxed and the hammer against it at the time of ignition - just how long do you think that takes anyway?

And just for the record, v-spring Perazzis have rebounding hammers.

And genuine Perazzi firing pins have the Perazzi logo on them these days

 
Have I told you about my titanium Kemen firing pins.....?

Now they are good :wink: and what's better......they were free when I asked for them.....thanks USA Aussies :wink:

 
Have I told you about my titanium Kemen firing pins.....?

Now they are good :wink: and what's better......they were free when I asked for them.....thanks USA Aussies :wink:
will they fit in a perazzi?

I have a kemen spares kit I acquired a while ago.

 
Titanium pins? Not good, if the firing pin is harder than the action, the pin will start to bore through the face. As an engineer, there needs to be a 'wear' part in everything - in a gun it is the firing pin. 

 
Update.  I spoke to a gunsmith who identified that it was the firing pin retaining slot (the groove near the rear) that was too short. This was at a shoot so took it to another GS who said exactly the same, both also said  P pins can need fitting, those that come in the original spare kit could have been pre fitted at the factory so will slot straight in.   2 mins with a file to lengthen the slot to the front of the pin and now all sorted. :thumbsu:

 
The first I've heard of anything remotely like that.

How could it have ever worked properly, even now and then,  if it was too short a slot?  Metal doesn't grow with use

inquiring minds, etc

 
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