Same chokes in both barrels?

most peeps say start off with quarter and a half, I have moved up to half and three quarters as my scores have improved ( I like the breaks better??! )

Anyway been thinking every time I step up to a stand, I first have to think now which is nearer first clay or second, no wait second is nearer no maybe first and I move my selector accordingly.

Surely it would be better to have 2 quarters or halfs or whatever and concentrate more on what the little pesky discs are doing in the sky than be fiddling with selectors?

the top AA+ shooters always seem to have the same albeit full and full.

As shooting is mostly in the mind having one less thing to worry about is surely better then you can concentrate more on clay trajectory etc..

Maybe it's only me that worrys too much about which barrel I should be firing first?

Stick two half chokes in and leave it at that! The breaks will be good enough to keep you happy and there won't be a target on a sporting course in the UK that would warrent anything tighter. Putting the lead in the right place is more important!

Sound advice

Stick 2 3/8ths (15 thou) in both barrels! they will kill ANY target on a sporting or fitasc layout, and forget all the Bull about the big boys and what they allegedly use.

choke is very easy to blame , but its usually pilot error ,  having said that my local orston gun club  requires choke  , some targets are  flying like hot snot .

I currently shoot 1/4 3/8 but have just ordered another 3/8 choke to shoot 3/8 3/8.

I carry a 5/8 with me, but as yet have never need to use it anywhere..

My dream gun would be a grade 5 MK60 sporter 32" choked 1/2 and 1/2, non selective trigger, in true 12 bore not back bored. All the gun you would ever need and would handle as sweet as!

What about a cylinder choke option for sub 10 yard speedy rabbits?

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1/2 choke is plenty open enough for rabbits no matter how close, there just isn't much left afterwards!

Your clearly a much better shot than me, cylinder option the only other option in my bag, ps the other 2 are 1/2 1/2

one of my squad members at the essex masters shot 7 out of 8 on the two stand 13s using 3/8 choke. 

1/4  1/4   works for me :haha:

If you shoot an auto then this isn't an issue of course. Careful choice of the choke is critical but a lot of people use 3/8 (15 thou) as a compromise and it is a devastating choke for both sporting and Fitasc.

PaulB said:

What about a cylinder choke option for sub 10 yard speedy rabbits?

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Absolutely pointless, it takes almost 20 yards for the shot string to develop regardless of choke, so you would be better sticking shot size 9 in...

I usually shoot a gun with both barrels set to the same choke, usually tight halves, I don't really want to be bothered with changing chokes or selecting which barrel to shoot first and this removes any doubt.

Matt, I didn't mention Physics. If by putting in a cylinder I hit a close rabbit because it gives me the confidence to do so then it has worked. However I did read somewhere from a choke manufacturer that at 10 yards the choke does start to have an impact and its something like 12" of spread for a half and 19" for cylinder, so give me that extra 7" anyday.

Very true, if it helps mentally then go for it, never really felt I ever needed an extra 7" myself...  :spiteful:

I change mine on every stand if needed,but if I had to keep the same in it would be improved cylinder.

Full and Full, give the little black buggers some hammer.

Phil*

Johnny English said:

My dream gun would be a grade 5 MK60 sporter 32" choked 1/2 and 1/2, non selective trigger, in true 12 bore not back bored. All the gun you would ever need and would handle as sweet as!

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Similar to mine which is, I am informed, based on a MK60 30" and has fixed chokes at 1/4 and 1/2.  I'm just glad I can't complicate things any more by worrying about which choke to use.